Corolla DIY

DIY - Home Depot Lip

2011-11-30T15:54:00.000-08:00

Well, here it is...

Took me about 30 minutes to do, and that was with the car on the ground. It would probably be easier if it were jacked up some and on jack stands...

Tools and Materials:

10mm Socket and Ratchet

Pointy Screwdriver (Or drill)

Wire Cutters

Scissors

Zip Ties

3M Outdoor double sided tape

Garage Door Bottom (I got it in a 12 foot roll. Only need about 7-8 feet)

Directions:

First, you'll need to remove the radiator guard under the car. You can do this by taking out the 5 bolts pictured below.

Once you have that off, lay out the Garage Door Bottom along the bumper on the ground.

Take the double sided tape, and stick it along the edge of the garage door bottom. I left a little gap from the edge so it would be less noticeable...

Now, hold the lip up to the bumper, and decide where you'd like it to be placed. Whether you like it recessed in a little, or on the edge. I went for a middle ground with it...

Next, stick it onto the bottom of the bumper. I found out that once you stick it on the bumper, it doesn't like to be taken back off. So get it right the first time :p

Next, keep unrolling the tape along the garage door bottom as you go around the bumper.

Then, work your way around the bumper. Make sure to take your time, checking the spacing to make sure it's even. If it's not, it WILL be noticeable. When going around any curves, make sure to push the lip into the corners so it sits flush with the bottom of the bumper. If you don't, you'll have a hard time getting it to curve with the bumper.

Then, once you worked your way all the way around, using scissors, cut off the excess garage door bottom.

Now, I clamped the edges to make sure the lip wouldn't start to come off while I secured it in place. Then, I took my pointed screwdriver and just pushed it through the lip, and the bottom of the bumper.

Once I did that, I just fed through a zip tie.

After that, pull the zip tie tight, and make sure it is secured as this will be the main thing holding the lip on. Once you've done that, move down about 4-5 inches, and make another hole, feed through the ziptie, and pull it tight. Repeat this as you work your way around the bumper.

When you get to a corner or spot where you have to keep the lip pressed up against the bumper, use a few zip ties to make sure it stays tight along the bottom of the bumper.

Now, take those wire cutters and snip off the extra stems on the zip ties to clean it up a bit...

Now, replace your radiator guard that you took off in the beginning by putting those 5 bolts back in, and you're all done!

Pictures of the final product...

Source of this DIY http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149878

DIY - Corolla Fender Liner 98 - 02

2011-11-29T11:17:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY for a Corolla fender liner . A reminder that a Corolla 98 - 99 are different from a 00 - 02 so before you order make sure you have purchased the correct one .

All you would need is a flat head screw driver and a ratchet 10mm . This DIY takes about 5 minutes with out taking the tire off all you need to do is raise the car up till the tire comes off the ground a little .

As you can see in the photo above my old one was broken .

The purpose of the fender liner is to keep rocks , salt , snow, water to ruin the wires under the fender or in my case to protect my HID box .

With the ratchet you remove the 3 bolts one is by the tow hook in the front and the others are spread center and back , then with your flat head you pop out the other push fasteners , If necessary you can purchase the push fasteners at Auto Zone just make sure you have the correct size sometimes these will break of you would need a pliers to help you pull them out .

Once you remove the liner then you do it in reverse and make sure the liner is nice and tight .

These photos about is the new fender liner and how it should look when it is all done .

More DIY at : http://www.corollacarlcub.proboards.com/

DIY - Resurface Your Plastic Headlights

2011-11-21T09:09:00.000-08:00

hand file or dremmel tool

2" wide masking tape

220 grit sand paper

400 grit sand paper

800 grit sandpaper

1200-1500 grit sandpaper

rubbing/buffing compound

electric or pneumatic buffer and wool pad, or polishing cloths

Most plastic headlights have plastic "nubs" protruding from the surface, these are for molding purposes and do nothing for the beam of the light itself, so it will be much easier on your project if you file them down flush with the surface of the lens either manually or with a dremel tool. Protect any adjascent surfaces around the headlight with a couple rows of masking tape several layers thick......repainting is EXPENSIVE!!!!

Beginning with the 220 grit sandpaper, woork over the surface of the lens in small circular motions. As you begin to remove the broken down or degraded plastic from the surface, the plastic sanding residue will begin to turn white from yellowish and the surface of the lens will begin to look more blemish free. Do this until you have a uniform, cledar but scuffed appearing surface, this should only take 2-3 minutes by hand depending on the size of the area. Next move to the 400 grit paper, but this time move in straight lines in an "X" pattern, or horizontally, then vertically until all of the circular scratches from the 220 grit paper are gone. Next you will step up to the 800 grit paper, again in circular motions until the straigh line 400 grit scratches are gone. Finally you are on the last phase of resurfacing, start in straight line motions until the 800 grit scratches are gone, then go in small circular motions, these will be easier to polish out.

If you have a buffing machine, 1200 rpms is aout ideal speed with a wool pad for this operation. Put approximately a half dollar size "1.5" diameter spot of compound on the lens and use the wool pad on the buffer to spread it across the surface of the lens without starting the machine. Next start the buffer and using the outer 2-3 inches of the pad, work from side to side and bottom to top until the compound starts to dry. Reapply compound as needed and repeat this process until you have a nice clear brilliant shine on your lens. Keep the buffer moving at all times, if you sit in one spot, you WILL melt the plastic and then you will need a new headlight. If you do not have a buffer, this process will take you quite a while and will wear you out, so be ready and be patient. Basically you will use the same process, but instead of the buffer, you are going to use a fine woven cloth (terry or micrfiber will work well) and work in straight line, then circular patterns until you acheive the same look described above.

Read more: http://corollacarclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=diy&action=display&thread=3545#ixzz1eMQ8mYJF

DIY - Inner & Outer Tie Rod Corolla 98 - 02

2011-11-05T11:53:00.000-07:00

This is a DIY for a front wheel drive Corolla 98 - 02 Inner & Outer Tie Rods . There are some videos on YouTube but none of Corolla's but it give you a general idea on helping you in this DIY .

Your gonna need this tool . It must have the crows feet , the other tool they rent at Auto Zone is for American cars . This tool I purchased at Harbor Freight cost $35.00 and is for Imports .

Corolla's from 98 - 02 have a Inner & Outer Tie Rod which looks like this . Older years only have outer . This DIY should apply to all Corolla front wheel drive with Inner Tie Rods.

First you remove the cotter pin for the outer tie rod them you loosen up the adjusting nut as shown in photos about . Once you have done the first two steps then you remove the castle nut then with a outer tie rod tool you pop the outer tie rod from the spindle . You can use a brass hammer to not damage the thread and hit from below . Then Once you have done those procedures then you remove the outer tie rod but make sure you mark the inner tie rod so that when you assemble it back together you are near point of alignment . Or if your just removing the outer tie rod then you can adjust it back to it's original spot.

Then you remove the outer clamp on the inner tie rod boot and then you go under neath the vehicle and break off the clamp on the inside of the inner tie rod . This clamp CANNOT be used again that is why you use a tie strap in its place . Once you remove both clamps then you remove the boot completely . Make sure you put this boot back on so DO NOT cut it or destroy it .

Now with the Inner Tie Rod tools you find the correct crows foot as the old one is a different size then the new one going in . You put the crows foot on the flat part of the Inner Tie Rod then you slide the tool over the complete tie rod once you feel you have a hold of then then you put a breaker bar on the end of it and remove the inner tie rod .

Now this is how the Inner Tie Rod tool works. Same procedure when your taking the tie rod off . You must use the crows foot cause there is a lock washer that sticks up and the crows foot will fit perfectly .

This tool makes it so much easier and gets the job done fast .

Make sure when your putting the new tie rod you put the lock washer and in some cases it is recommended to put lock thread blue . The blue one holds it in place and helping out the lock washer plus the blue is medium strenght and is easy to remove if need to replace in the future . If you choose not to use the lock thread that is fine to cause you do have the lock washer but better to be safe them sorry .

Once you have done that procedure in reverse put your inner tie rod back on and hand tight it with the tool . Before you put your outer tie rod on get a tie strap put it on gently then put the boot back over and secure both ends .

Then put your outer tie rod remembering where you marked it previously .

Here is the how it should look when you have completed all procedures . Then off to the alignment shop . Make sure when you do this you immediately go to a alignment shop that way you aren't doing any unnecessary wear on your tires . Even if you have it close to alignment better in the long run .

More DIY on http://www.corollacarclub.proboards.com/

DIY - Eliminating a 1ZZ Power Steering Belt

2011-10-10T14:07:00.000-07:00

when you do this your powersteering pump will be bypassed. you can then disconnect the lines from the steering rack (I would suggest looping the lines into eachother).

Read more: http://corollacarclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=diy&action=display&thread=3370#ixzz1aPoEg9EY

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DIY - 9005/9006 to H4 Conversion Diagram

2011-08-10T06:23:00.000-07:00

DIY Rear Disc Brake Conversion Corolla 93 - 97

2011-05-11T17:12:00.000-07:00

If you were wondering on how to get rear disk brakes I found 2 cars that you can get it and is cheaper than the 92 Camry swap that's 5 lugs

you need any of these cars since they are 4 lugged already

if I'm correct

88-92 corolla gts

or

92 Geo prizm gsi they came with the 4age motor and rear disk break

now my friend is doing this swap right now as soon he is finish I will tell you all the details

we found a Geo prizm 92 gsi and we took the rear disk for his car and everything bolted up except for the adjustable arm that you have to take it and weld the other part that holds the holes the break to be adjusted(the control arm bracket) I will put pic later

Read more: http://corollacarclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=diy&action=display&thread=37#ixzz1M5o7lMwH

DIY: AE101/ 111 Rear Lower (2 points) Bar install

2011-05-11T17:00:00.000-07:00

Just got the Ultra Racing Lower 2 point bar that goes under the back of the car or.................................A lower arm bar is an alloy/steel bar that ties the lower suspension pick-up points of a vehicle (with an independent suspension) together. It increases chassis rigidity by bracing the left and right lower-control-arm sheet metal mounting points. The lower arm bar is designed to reduce the non-pivoting movement of the control arms and to stiffen the subframe to lessen the distortion of the lower suspension, especially during hard cornering. As a result, it improves the handling and steering response of the vehicle much like a strut bar. A lower arm bar provides additional benefits in front-wheel drive vehicles by reducing wheel hop and torque steer. The bar lowers ground clearance by approximately 30 millimeters on most aftermarket installations.

Ok here we go on this. first lift your car up on jacks. you will need a 19mm wrench and socket.

In the next 3 pics you will see the oem washer and a 5/8`s washer. you can not use the oem for its to large. go to Home depo or lowes to get the 5/8`s grade 8 washer . WHY ? Grade 8 is very strong metel and wont rust or bend when you tighten the strut bar on to the cross arms. Note dont be CHEEP this only cost $1.25 and well worth it

After you put in the new washers , just slide the bolt back through and tighten it back down and your done.

Read more: http://corollacarclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=diy&action=display&thread=2363#ixzz1M5kxboQ5

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Toyota Radio Wire Harnesses Diagram

2011-05-04T09:37:00.000-07:00

This is just a wire diagram for certain Toyota vehicles .

DIY: Polyurethane Filler in the Motor Mounts

2011-04-19T07:50:00.000-07:00

Polyurethane filler in the motor mountsThis is a very simple mod you just need the following stuff: Spare mounts from the store or yard oem preferred.

I found these on a paseo in the boneyard. Just so you don't have any down time with your car. A tube of 3m window weld and a caulking gun. Peel the bottom panel off the tube then slip it into your gun.here is a pic of the tube.

You can find these at any napa location. Ok now I left the small part on to fill up the tiny areas first on both mounts. then cut down the a bigger size for the not so small parts.

For the larger sized area I took the whole cap off and squirted it in direct so i would not get any air holes.

Then used an old screw driver to smooth it over push any air out. once that was done I left them alone to dry 30 min later they will start to dry up on the out side it takes longer to cure the inside the most important piece of all.

I will give it prolly 3-4 days to fully cure then install them. once I do that I will be doing a rear mount with the same proccess. Also looking into the front mount on the corolla/celica setup too. Hope this helps somewhat with your engine mount problems. Oh yeah i recommend wearing gloves this stuff is supper sticky adheisive.

DIY Trunk Light Switch Replacement Corolla 93 - 97

2011-04-15T09:21:00.000-07:00

This is a DIY on how to replace or add a trunk light switch for a 93 - 97 Corolla .

The Switch is connected to the trunk hook . You do not have to remove the hook just the switch .

First you remove the plastic piece and the carpet that covers up the area .

Then with a angle phillips screw driver you unscrew the switch from the hook .

This is a example on how you would do it .

Then you remove the plug from the old switch then you clip on the new switch to the plug

Then you put every thing back together and test out your trunk light .

DIY Installing Aftermarket Steering Wheel Corolla 93 - 97

2010-09-01T16:31:00.000-07:00

tools needed:

small channel locks
19mm socket , ratchet , and 6" extension
flat head and phillips head screwdriver
torx 35 bit driver or socket
wire strippers
zip ties
butt connectors
female spade connector
spiral corded phone wire

1. unplug BOTH terminals on the battery , and KEEP them away from making any connection at all while servicing. now press the brake pedal for about 5 sec. now wait aprx. 5 minutes before touching anything. also make sure the wheels are strait , and the ignition is locked , and keys are not in ignition. alldata calls for 90 sec. for the backup battery of the airbag to drain , but we all know not all battery's are created equal , so be safe

2. remove you steering colomn cover by removing the two screws from the bottom . next locate these tabs on either side of the steering wheel , and pop them out from the back using a flat head screw driver.

3.now you have access to the three retainer screws (2 on left 1 on right) that hold in your airbag/ center piece. they take a "35" torx bit.

4.loosen these screws till they dont back out anymore . now use the flat head screwdriver to pull these screws out of their plastic retainers.

5. the airbag assembly should now fallout into your hand . at this point unplug the airbag connector from the airbag.

6.remove your steering wheel shaft nut , i used a 3/4" socket for this , but i think a 19mm will fit better.

7. use a steering wheel puller tool (part #09950-50010 or 09609-20011) or whatever puller you can find to remove the factory steering wheel.

i had to cross thread my puller bolts into the steering wheel because i did not have the proper thread pattern for the corolla. also , on a side note , if you get the puller super tight and notice the steering wheel is not sliding off the shaft , hit the steering wheel rim one good time w/ a hammer while there is tension from the puller on it. mine slid right off at this point. you should now be looking at this:

8. remove the 4 silver phillips head screws shown here.

9.remove the yellow "spiral" plate that you just removed the 4 screws out of.

10. now remove these 2 silver phillips head screws that hold the multi-function switch wire guide, also cut the factory zip tie on the upper end and "un-snap" the clips at the lower end.

11. follow the "yellow" wrapped wire back to the connector in the dash , and unhook it. also unplug the white plug from the yellow spiral cover (and let it hang , this is your horn .then tape up the yellow plug that is still on the car side of the harness. this was for the airbag. 1st pic is were the plug is , 2nd is tapped.

the spriral cover you just pulled off is just for the airbag wire , and horn wire. since your not running an airbag no more , you dont need this , nor can you use an aftermarket steering wheel with it. more on the horn latter.

12. now re-install the plastic wire guard for the multi-function switch wires , be sure you include the horn wire when reinstalling. also put a new zip tie in the place of the zip tie you cut. horn wire will be just hanging at this point.

13. now this is where the instructions that came with your aftermarket wheel comes into play.

the only other advice i offer here is to make sure you mount the aftermarket hub strait up so your wheel is strait. also , YOU WILL HAVE TO TIGHTEN THE PISS OUT OF THE NEW HUB TO GET IT SEATED PROPERLY!!! IF YOU DONT HAVE A NOSEBLEED BY THE TIME YOUR DONE , IT AINT TIGHT ENOUGH!!!

this pic below is a pic of the turing signal neutral cam. this must be pushed down by the aftermarket hub.(cam is spring loaded)

14.after installing you steering wheel per instructions provided with it , reinstall steering colomn cover.

you might wanna pull the cluster and remove the indicator light for the airbag lamp , because it will remain on as long as there is no airbag on the drivers side.

now for the horn.

the best way i found to do this , is to connect a spiral phone chord or c/b microphone spiral chord to the green horn wire , you cut from the white plug that WAS connected to the "yellow spiral".

coil one or two coils of the spiral wire into the hub , then put the appropriate connector to attach to the new horn button on the end of the spiral wire , in the hub.

now zip tie the green wire side under the steering wheel to the multifunction meter wires .

the spiral cord should now be hanging freely , and have enough play to turn the wheel full "cocked" in either direction. i will edit this w/ a pic shortly.

should look like this when your done:

DIY Tune Up & Oil Change Corolla 98 - 02

2010-08-26T07:00:00.000-07:00

This is a DIY on a full tune up job on a 8th gen non vvt-i Corolla .

First thing you do is you carefully remove your spark plug wires , If there not numbered then number them or lay them in order as you take them off.

While your wires are off you can remove your PCV which is located above the ignition coil on the right side of your valve cover . To test the PCV you shake it and if it rattles freely then your PCV is ok if it doesn't rattle freely then it is clogged .

With a extension and a spark plug socket you remove all the spark plugs . Make sure before you remove your spark plugs it is free from dirt or liquids so that when the whole is open nothing drops in your cylinders .

My OEM plugs are the double sided spark plug . Denso #3194 . Some places you have to order them as in my case . Some people have their own preference . This is mine and what my corolla calls for .

Then I gap them at .44 each side .

Then I applied some anti seize because the corolla heads are aluminum and the spark plug is metal . If you don't apply this they will be a pain to get out . Once I applied the anti seize then I put the plugs back . Hand screw first so that you don't strip the threads .

The with the dielectric grease you put some inside the spark plug wires so that it will make it easier to pull the wires on and off with out breaking them .

Since this car doesn't have a distributor and coil packs . Inspect the coil packs lube as well with dielectric grease .

In this case I have a aftermarket air filter . This air filter can be cleaned a reused . It's very simple you spray some degreaser all over the filter and let it sit for awhile . Then with a hose you spray from the inside out to remove all the dirt and grease . Do this as many times as needed . When you are done then you shake it dry or if you have a air hose you can use that to help it dry quicker . Set it out in the sun while you do other things and come back to it then spray the either transmission fluid or the oil spray that comes with it . Then you let it sit for awhile . This prevents it from rusting .

Next step is changing your oil . With your ratchet you remove your oil pan bolt . Make sure you have a oil pan underneath it . Let the oil drain for as long as you can , You want to make sure all your old oil is out . I do not use any oil cleaner additive but if you want to then you do what is best for you .

With that then you remove your oil filter make sure you have a oil pan underneath that cause oil will come over around the filter .

Then when you are ready to put your new filter back you wipe up the area where the old filter was then with your finger tip you apply a light coat of oil around the rubber ring of the oil filter . Then you hand tighten the filter . As the car runs it will tighten up more .

Then when you are done you add your new oil , check all your fluids , put your air filter back . Start your engine let it run then shut it down and look for any leaks . Check your oil fluid again . Then you have completed your tune up .

DIY Vehicle Battery Maintenance

2010-08-25T11:48:00.000-07:00

This is a DIY on any car battery with top post .

This is basically the stuff I use when I do maintenance on my own battery . Everyone has their own methods this is mine .

This is how my battery looked with corrosion and acid all over the tops and post .

First I sprayed the battery cleaner and die spray . The red shows all the acid . Once you spray this you let it sit and eat up the acid . If you need to apply more then apply more . Always remember to use gloves cause the acid will eat your skin and sting a little . Wear eye protective glass . Never blow the acid , Always use a rag your not gonna reuse again then throw away .

Once you have wiped off all the cleaner and as much as acid you can , Then with your battery cleaner tool that has a wire brush inside you clean your top post . If you do not have this tool you can use sand paper or a wire brush .

Then you open the top of the battery cleaner tool and wire brush the inside of your battery terminals and then the outside of the terminals removing all the acid . Again if you don't have this tool you can use sand paper or a wire brush .

Once you have all the terminals and post clean you wipe down your battery . Check your fluid levels . Do Not Over Flow . You battery does boil when it is hot and if you over flow then every thing you have done has gone to waste . Once everything is clean you add what I call are pads to absorb any acid that the battery may boil out . This keeps the terminals a little protected .

I usually use the battery protectant lube & spray that they give you at the parts store . But it's your car battery and you do what you think is needed. Once you bolt down your battery terminals then you spray or add the battery protectant .
Some of the newer cars require you stick a 9v battery plug in your lighter to keep the computer from resetting itself . Make sure your vehicle doesn't need that or else you will be calling the dealership to reprogram your car . Some cars will not start. Some cars go into a dum mode and will sound horrible until it relearns itself .
Make sure you consult your manual first . For older cars you are ok to do this method .

DIY Rear Brakes & Wheel Cylinder Corolla 93 - 02

2010-08-18T14:38:00.001-07:00

Since the 93-97 have the same exact rear brakes and wheel cylinders with out ABS as the 98-02 this DIY can be use for both vehicles . The best thing to do is one side at a time so if you don't remember how it goes you have the other side for help . Plus the shoes can go on either side there is no front or back .

Once you have your corolla secure with jack stands then you can remove the brake drum off . Some brake drums might need a little bit of tapping to get off .

The best way to remove your brake shoes is to start from the top removing the spring where the brake adjuster is through it then you can work your way either one side or the other side down till the brake shoes are completly off.

Then you can remove the emergency brake bracket from the brake shoe . Take the spring off first then spread the clip apart . Some brake shows come with this replacement and others don't so try not to destroy it .

In this DIY I replaced my wheel cylinder . In the back are two bolts and the brake line .

While I had everything off I decided to get a tiny wire brush and cleaned the braking plate , Then with some degreaser I spray the area and with my air hose I blew out the all the junk and made it easier to dry out too .

With having the drums off it's a perfect opportunity to pain your drums too .

Before I put the wheel cylinder back I took the bleeder out and put some anti seize on the thread and put some anti sieze on the bolts too and if you choose you can put some on your brake line .

Then I put some anti sieze on the areas that the brake shoes rub on , Then I took the brake adjuster to make sure it isn't frozen and un screwed it added anti seize on both ends .

Then I put the brake shoes back up starting from one side then the bottom then the other side and up .

Once you have your brake shoes on then you can put the drum back on bleed your wheel cylinders take the drums off then adjust your shoes . Then you can put your tire back on and test your brakes in a area that you can safely test the at .

DIY Brake Master Cylinder Corolla 93 - 97

2010-08-16T15:18:00.000-07:00

This DIY is for the Brake Master Cylinder only .

As you can see some Brake Master Cylinder come with the plastic container and some don't . In a situation where you don't then you reuse the same container . There is a small phillips screw holding it in place .

First thing you do is to remove the brake lines from the master cylinder .

Then you unplug the brake light warning switch plug .

Then you can remove the 3 nuts holding the master cylinder to the power booster and there you have it , You have removed the master cylinder . Then after bench bleeding you can put it back on the same way you took it off . If necessary you can bleed the lines so that you have new brake fluid and secure you don't have any air in the lines .

Bench bleeding is simple . Your master cylinder comes with the parts to bleed it . If you don't have a bench you can attach it back to the power booster and have some one inside the vehicle slightly pressing on the brakes till you don't see it bubbling anymore . Master cylinder comes with bench bleeding instructions so put them in a area where the paper won't get brake fluid on it .

DIY Power Brake Booster Corolla 93 - 97

2010-08-13T15:39:00.000-07:00

This DIY is for the Power Brake Booster only . Before you do this it is best that you disconnect the battery cause one you disconnect the brake pedal from the Power Brake Booster your brake lights will go on and kill the battery . You can use something to keep the pedal up but it takes 5 seconds to disconnect the battery .

If you have a cold air intake or the air filter box remove that first .

If you have a upper bar remove that or the one side so you lift it up and out of your way .

My car has a fuel air canister and if yours does then remove that too . The more you remove the better working area you will have .

The next thing to do is remove the brake master cylinder lines . But in my situation I didn't have to remove the master cylinder lines at all I just pulled the whole master cylinder forward .

Then remove the hose that connects to the power brake booster . Make sure you put this back on when you put the other one on .

Then you can remove the 3 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the power brake booster .

If you disconnected the lines keep the master cylinder standing up and place it somewhere it won't tip over . If you didn't remove the lines just pull the master cylinder forward and be careful you don't kink the lines or brake them .

If your car has the A/C duck for in between your legs then remove that piece .

Right by the brake pedal you remove the 4 nuts holding the power brake booster to the firewall .

There is a pin and a spring that you have to remove also . Once you have that all disconnected then you can go back to the front and pull the brake booster out . Then when you put the new one in you just do it in the reverse . If you disconnected the master cylinder make sure you bleed it correctly . If you didn't disconnect your battery put something behind the pedal .

Reminder before you put the brake booster back in you have to loosen the nut so that you can adjust it to the brake pedal . Very important it matches your brake lights so that the lights don't come on to early or to late then causing a accident . Once you have completed this then you can tighten the nut back . You can adjust your brakes by using a needle nose pliers twisting the ridged area so that the handle moves forward .

DIY Stand Out Toyota Logo

2010-07-25T19:29:00.000-07:00

Now the stand out Toyota Logo.......you will need a photo copy of the Logo...I got mine from the internet, also x-acto knife, foamies sheet that you can get at Michael's, spray adhesive, some fabric and a lot of patience...

First print out logo......and tape over the first foam sheet....then cut. You should get the first Logo. Once done glue it on top of the second sheet and cut outer part.

Once done cut fabric to specific measurement ....put some glue on Logo and glue fabric over and give the shape to fabric

And there you have it . You can do it in any way you want this was just to show you how it looks .

DIY Polishing Aluminum Engine Parts To a Mirror Finish

2010-07-24T19:44:00.000-07:00

Here you go guys another DIY..this one is not mine but I've done rims using the same technique. Since the engine bay is hot you might want to spray some high temp or rims clear coat to prevent it from dulling out.

We start with the standard piece, in this case it's the coolant neck of a Gen3 3S-GTE engine.

The first step is the most time consuming and important phase. The amount of work and detail you're prepared to bring into this phase determines how well it'll look in the end.

To get the part to a smooth, mirror-shine finish we need to smoothen the surface of the part. Since this aluminum part is cast, the cast structure needs to be leveled. Aluminum is very soft and this can be achieved by hand-sanding the structure down with grit 80 sanding paper:

I'm using a cork sanding block, which isn't too large and gives in a little. A hard, plastic sanding block wouldn't work as well because it's not flexible, making it much harder to sand curved surfaces.

After the first stroke, this problem area becomes visible:

The top is not completely round but has a weird shape. You could leave it like this, but as I said, this stage determines how well the finished piece will look. So I want this removed to create a nice round shape instead of what it is now. I use a big metal file to level the high areas. This is the result:

I also filed down the casting seams at the top:

The rest of the shapes were okay, these just required sanding. Do as much as you can with the sanding block, because you can easily apply pressure on it, making the work much easier. Also, when not using a tool like a block, you're bound to create waves in the soft material, which will show once it's completed. Compare it to body filler: you need the sanding block to create a tight, planar surface. If you'd sand the filler by hand, you'd create a warped surface.

After sanding more:

Here I filed away the ongoing casting seam with the same file:

The file leaves pretty heavy scratches. 80 Grit sandpaper deals with it though:

A bit further down, there's a small '2' cast into the piece.

I used a miniature file to get rid of it:

I used the large metal file again to level this:

You can see how much material was removed by looking at the blank material. After more sanding, sanding and sanding, stage1 was completed.

TIME NEEDED TO COMPLETE 80GRIT SANDING: 6-7 HOURS

The next stages are considerably shorter, and easier. 120 Grit sandpaper is up!

In this picture, the top part has been sanded down with 120 grit, the rest is still 80. The idea is, that every scratch you made with the 80 grit sanding paper must be removed by the 120 grit. If you don't, you'll see it throughout the remaining stages!

Here, the piece is complete done.

TIME NEEDED TO COMPLETE 120GRIT SANDING: 1.5 HOURS.

The next stage is 220 grit sanding. Again, you should sand away all the sanding marks left by the 120 grit stage. All done:

TIME NEEDED TO COMPLETE 220GRIT SANDING: 1 HOUR.

The next phase it 400. This is where it gets tricky, because this is one of the highest grits you can still dry-sand. Wipe off the paper often, because it tends to fill up with aluminum dust very quickly.

As you can see, the piece gets shinier by the hour!

TIME NEEDED TO COMPLETE 400GRIT SANDING: 1 HOUR.

Now we move to wet sanding. Get a bucket of warm water and throw in some pieces of 1200 grit sanding paper. You might also get an old towel, fold it four times, and lay it on your lap. I found this greatly helps in not getting my lap soaking wet.

Also, note that at this point, sanding can be done by hand for most parts. You're not altering the shape of the piece any more, you're just refining the texture of the aluminum. Some parts may still be easier to do with a block or rubber, but hand-sanding will get you into all the tight areas.

TIME NEEDED TO COMPLETE 1200GRIT WET-SANDING: 45 MINUTES.

The last sanding step is 2500 grit. Again, this can be done by hand to save time. Finished piece:

TIME NEEDED TO COMPLETE 2500GRIT WET-SANDING: 45 MINUTES.

Now it's time for the topping on the ice! Get yourself a hard cotton/cloth polishing disc with polishing paste (usually a hard bar), and mount it on a drill.

Use this to polish the piece to the mirror-shine you always dreamed of!

TIME NEEDED TO COMPLETE MACHINE POLISHING: 15 MINUTES.

DIY AE86 Strut Assembly into TE72 With Coil Overs

2010-07-23T20:13:00.000-07:00

NOTE: Paradise Racing also sells the coil over kit for TE72 I just wanted to go with AE86 strut assembly in case I wanted to go cheap and use lowering springs; so it is up to you but the steps will work for either one of them.

Things needed:

AE 86 Strut insert refill (autozone)
AE 86 Strut Assembly (junkyard)
AE 86 Calipers and Pads (junkyard)
AE 86 Drilled and Slotted Brake Disk (optional)(ebay)
Paint
Primer
Drill
Wire Brush for drill (3 different sizes is better) (Dollar Store or Walmart)
Bearing Grease (autozone)
AE 86 Coilover kit (paradise racing)

Tools Needed

12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
21mm socket
Electric or pneumatic impact wrench
hammer
flat tip screwdriver
10mm wrench
8mm wrench
Vice grip
hydraulic jack
jack stand
ratchet
diagonal cotters
breaker bar
pry bar
empty container or bucket
vice
big pliers

Steps

First of all I started with a rusted off strut assembly so it was time to clean the corrosion, primer and paint all parts. Before this; it is better if you take it completely apart. You will need the 14mm socket to take the calipers off the assembly. Also the 12mm socket to take the caliper apart. You will also need a bucket, big pliers, and a vice to take apart the strut insert. Don't tightened the strut too tight in the vice since it will damage the cylinder...just enough to remove the nut. Now remove the brake disk by removing the grease cover at the front with a flat tip and hammer. Use the diagonal cutters to remove the cotter pin. Now remove the nut follow by the bearings and brake disk assembly. If you are to replace the disk use the 14 mm to remove 4 bolts on the back of disk assembly to remove disk from assembly. Also remove the brake disk backing plate from strut assembly by removing 4 bolts. Once everything is apart clean, primer and paint all parts.

Now just assemble everything the same way you took it apart. Now it is time to order your parts and be jumpy every time the door bell rings...lol. The first thing I got was the coil over kit from paradise racing. The way you set them up is fairly easy. First the treated sleeve and the locking nut and the adjustment nut on top(the one with Allen key bolt), follow by the locking ring, then your spring. Next one will be your top part or hat. Use the zip thighs out of the kit to keep the hat and spring together and pit the cotter pin/locking pin into hat. Then use the second upper cover out of your AE86 strut assembly. The one with bolts that goes attached to the frame from the ae86 will not be used, you will use the one out of your TE72. Check out pics to learn how to set it up.

Now it is time to get the old ones out and the new ones in. First raise the front end of car up and put it on jack stands. Using the 21mm socket remove front tires. Then open hood and take strut assembly center nut cover out(that is the one on top of each strut assembly under the hood). Now use your impact wrench and 19mm socket to remove the strut assembly main bolt(you may have to use the vice grip to prevent the strut insert/piston to rotate during removal). Your upper hat from the TE72 strut assembly will stay attached to the car. Now use your 10mm wrench to removed the brake line and put empty container under it to recover the brake fluid. Once removed, use a flat tip and hammer to take out the locking pin/latch that holds the line in place out. Now use your 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove 2 bolts under strut assembly the ones holding it to the lower plate. At this time your strut assembly will be loose and all you need to do is pry it out and/or step on lower plate to make room for assembly to come out. Now remove the old assembly and install the new one the same way you removed the old one. Make sure both side are adjusted the same way. Install both tires and lower car. Now remember to bleed the brake system and your done. Take it for a spin and bring it back. Now do final adjustments, so lower or raise and you are done.

Now enjoy your new coil overs and your new look....hope you enjoy and got something out of this DIY .

DIY AE86: INCREASING ALTERNATOR AMPS

2010-07-20T18:19:00.000-07:00

I currently ran into an issue with my 1986 AE86. The alternators are set OEM specs to hold 60amps and have been an issue thruout the years of ownership and they can't keep you battery charged by mearely using your headlights, lead along AC, power windows, Sound systems with 500+ watts, etc.

And when you get the ones from local auto parts, they last short periods of time or fail within the first month or 2. ALso, there are nearly ZERO shops willing to modify your alternators affraid you will burn up your rides and then suit them for it.

Well, here's an idea that works for any pre-1990 Corolla GTS or FX16 fitted with 4AGE engines...
The 1984-87 alternators were 60AMPS
1988-89 alternators were 70AMPS
1990-91 alternators were 80AMPS

THEY ALL FIT EACH OTHER WITH NO MODIFICATIONS REQUIRED (may be except for the 4AGZE)...so, you can simply order the 1991 Corolla GTS alternator and there you have it!!

Can you see the ONLY Difference between the 2 pictures below? (Main post casing)
On your left is a 1991 Corolla GTS (4AGE engine) 80APMS Alternator...on your right a 1984-87 Corolla GTS (4AGE engine) 60APMS Alternator.

This may verywell be the same with other Rides that although their bodies/engines may have changed, their engines may still be using the same alternator housing/connections/brackets, but internally, they are capable of more AMPS and that will solve your issue with adding accessories to your rides and not affecting your charging system.

Do your own search on other rides and Good luck!

DIY Rear Hub Bearing Corolla 03 - 08

2010-07-17T11:40:00.000-07:00

Steps:

1. Chock the front wheels
2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts (21mm)
3. Jack up the car
4. Place a jack stand
5. Remove the wheel
6. Release the hand brake

Screw the two M8×1.25 bolts into the holes in the drum brake to push it away from the hub. It may be rusted to the hub so prepare for some cracking sounds. Remove the drum once it is free

Remove the four 12mm bolts on the back of the hub. You may need a breaker bar. Do not use thin walled 1/4" drive sockets--I broke two trying to remove those bolts.

While holding the backing plate and taking care not to disturb the brake parts and brake line, pull the hub out of the suspension arm. Once it is out, reinsert the bolts to hold the backing plate to the suspension arm so that it doesn't hang by the brake line.

Line up the bolts and insert the new hub. Torque the bolts to 45 ft·lbf. Remember, these bolts hold your wheels on the car!

DIY Adding Power Mirrors Corolla 93 - 97

2010-07-16T09:44:00.000-07:00

This DIY is how to add Power Mirrors to a Non Power Mirror Corolla 93 - 97 .

1: Pull out the left side vent. No screws, just pulls out
Parts needed: Mirrors -Door Harness for mirror -Mirror switch

So far I only installed the right side as I have not painted the left one yet. The left side install is the same as the right.

1: Pull out the left side vent. No screws, just pulls out

2: Untape the unused connector. Pop out the square plastic piece, and pop in the control switch. Plug it on, and pop the vent back on.

3: Take off the right side lower door sill trim. There is one plastic piece you need to unscrew, and 3 plastic clips holding it down to the sill.

4: Pull off the triangle mirror cover.

5: Take off the door panel. There are 2 screws in the arm and 1 in the handle.

7: Remove the glove box. NOTE, there is 2 10mm bolts behind the plastic on the sides behind the glove box. I left 1 of the plastic covers on so you know what it looks like.

6: Unscrew and remove the mirror, 3 10mm bolts. Then screw on the power mirror.

7: Unscrew the speaker and remove.

8: Pull the door harness through the speaker area. There is a white connector in the kick panel where indicated by my finger. Also, there is a plastic clip holding the harness to the door, in the middle of the lower door side part of the hinge, also indicated by my finger. Pop it though. Then pull the harness through where the speaker should be.

9: Run the mirror wires though the with the speaker wires. Run the harness back through the door into the kick panel. Plug the speak connector back, and then plug the mirror harness in as well, and connect the plug to the mirror.

And there you have it power mirrors , The driver side is done the same way

DIY Front Brake Pads Corolla 03 - 08

2010-07-13T12:00:00.000-07:00

get under the car with the jack and get crankin - use at least a 2-ton jack

rest the car on jack stands (both sides simultaneously). remove the wheels.

(optional). spray down the rotor with brake cleaner and wipe it off to clean some of the gunk accumulated.

this is the caliper. using a 14mm wrench, unbolt the two nuts where my fingers are making contact. there is a 3rd nut in the center - dont remove it.

the brake hose connecting is too short to allow the components to hang. use a ziptie and hang it off your spring (or however else you fancy).

apply some Anti-Squeal grease between the new brake pads and the shims (photo shows old brake pad). just a few dabs should be okay.

place the shims on the inner/outer brake pads and slide the whole assembly on to the clips (it will be obvious where they go).

gosh, this was the painful part. the piston is extended and won't let you slide it back on the pads. use a C-clamp and push it back in. the other side of the clamp you don't see is on the middle nut you shouldn't have removed. Autozone will rent you a brake pad installation kit with a compressor and what not.

with the caliper compressed, the assembly should slide back on the pads. torque down the 2 bolts to 25 ft.lb

DIY Adding Drivers Front Lower Vent Corolla 93 - 07

2010-07-11T16:18:00.000-07:00

2 parts needed. The plastic vent tube and the vent as pictured.

1: Remove the side trim piece. 1 plastic screw by the firewall, the rest are just clips that pull off.

2: Remove the lower dash trim. 4 10mm bolts. One on each lower corner, and 2 that are behind the plastic covers towards the top. Remove the Hood Latch release cable.

3: Unscrew the phillipshead screw on the front left side of the vent tube. Then just pull the tube out.

4: Put on the vent tube with the opening the same way you took the other one off.

5: Poke out the plastic cover in the lower dash piece.

6: Push in the vent.

And there you have it nice cool air in between your legs .

DIY Rear Studs Corolla 03 - 08

2010-07-01T12:14:00.000-07:00

TOOLS-
new stud(s)
washers(about 3-4)
open ended lug nut
tire iron
hammer

first take off your wheel, if you have a broken or stripped stud its more then likely already off, and your wheel will look like this

Then, take off the cover, it should slide off pretty easily if its stuck its just rusted on so dont be afraid to give a little force, and it will look like this

Then, hold the assembly so it doesnt move and take your hammer and whack the sh!t out of the end of that stud and it will pop out the other end, and it should look like this

Now, take your new stud and stick it in the hole like the old one was, notice it wont fit in there and will look like this

Now, take your washers and put them on the stud, like so

Now, all there is left to do is thread the nut on tight as hell and with the help of the washers it will thread the Stud thru the hole, its gunna take a bit of force so stick your hammer in between 2 of the studs and have the end touch the ground so it will stop the assembly from moving

and once its all the way thru the hole place your hammer on the opposite side and unscrew the lug and VOILA you have replaced your ruined stud!

DIY Cutting Your Springs Corolla 89 - 92

2010-06-26T13:27:00.000-07:00

This is a DIY on how to cut your springs for those who can't afford lowering springs or coil overs .

In this case we lowered it 3 inches so that the wheel wells are lower to match the top of the tires .

First thing you do is you crack the lug nuts a little then you find a secure spot to raise your corolla . In this case I put the jack in the front of the frame which is the strongest part of the car . Then once you have done all of that you place jack stands and lower the car on the jack stands for extra safety .

Once you have the tires off you remove the strut mount bolts and the strut bolts on the bottom .

Once you have your strut off you get a spring compressor and you compress your spring and then you remove the top of the strut mount remove your spring and prepare to cut .

To avoid removing your brake line you can uct a little bit of the bracket off so that you can slide your brake line and it makes it faster to remove and instal your struts in future projects .

Then once you cut your springs then you remove the little piece you aren't using and then you might need a spring compressor or not you put the springs back and the struts back in reverse .

The rear struts you have to remove the back part of the seat to get to the strut mount bolts . Then you do the same thing to the rear as you do the front .

Make sure you cut both sides the same way , Make sure you use a spring compressor and jack stands . The end results is your car will look like this and this corolla did not bounce as we test drove it .

DIY Front Brakes Corolla 98 - 02

2010-06-26T12:33:00.000-07:00

This is a DIY for changing your front brakes in a corolla 98 - 02 .

First you just slightly crack your lug nuts and then you find a secure spot to jack up the corolla in my photo I used the front frame so that I can raise both sides at once . Then you place jack stands in a secure area lower the corolla on the jack stands then you can remove the rest of your front tires .

Once you have the tires off then you can use your rachet with a 14mm socket and start removing the bolts that hold down the brake caliper .

Then with a flat head screw drive you gently pry back the caliper .

Then you can spread your front brake pads apart . You can use a screw driver here to of needed .

Some don't but I personally put on some brake quiet on the back of the front pads . This is optional but I love my corolla so I use it . Then you let this set for a few seconds .

While your letting your pads set then you can just slightly crack open the top of your brake fluid cap then with the proper tool you push back the piston in the caliper . Once that is done then you put back your cap .

Then you put back your pads and brake caliper the same way you removed them and your done .

Then when you are done you tighten up the lug nuts and lower your corolla , Make sure your brake fluid cap is back on , Before you start the car pump your brakes until the brake pedal comes up . Some cars do not need top be blead but if you opened the line or your fluid is nasty it is recommended that you bleed your brakes . And with not alot of time there you have your front brakes changed .

DIY CV Shaft Replacement Corolla 93 - 02

2010-03-15T18:19:00.001-07:00

This is a DIY on how to remove and replace your CV shaft . The 98 - 02 corolla cv shaft is the same part # as the 93 - 97 non ABS . You can interchange the two and the DIY is the same too .

Before raising your car you remove your cotter pin that holds the CV shaft . Then you remove the nut in the middle that holds the CV shaft . Then you can raise your vehicle and make sure you sure jack stands for safety .

Once you have your car secure then you remove the tie rod .

Then you can remove the sway bar link with a allen key and wrench .

Then you go to the bottom of the ball joint and remove all three nuts .

With a big screw driver or a pry bar you can lower the control arm so that the stud will seperate from the ball joint from the lower control arm .

Then you pull forward the whole stut and wheel assembly and the CV shaft will slide out . If you have a brass or lead hammer you can tap it out to help .

Before you go under the vehicle make sure your jack stand is secure so that the vehicle doesnt drop on you .

You can either use a big flat head screw driver or a pry bar to pop out the inside of the CV shaft from the transmission or there are some indents on the barrel of the shaft that you can put a flat head screw driver and bang it out . Once you see it seperating some oil might spill out but that ok .

It's best that you replace the seal while you are there . If it's not leaking in my opinion then leave it there .

Make sure you check your CV shafts . There are two different types one with ABS brakes and one with out . Make sure you have the proper shaft . Then when you are done you can put the shaft back .

Give another inspection before you put your tire back on make sure all your nuts and bolts are tight . Make sure the inner part of the CV shaft snaps . If this doesn't then the inner part will pop out later on while driving .

Once you are done then you can put our tire back on and lower your vehicle and then go for a test drive .

DIY Front Brake Caliper Replacement Corolla 93 - 97

2010-03-12T14:00:00.001-08:00

This DIY is for front brake caliper .

First you raise your car and make sure you use jack stands to support it . Best way to remove and replace the brake caliper is to turn your wheel facing you on what either side you are working on .

Then you remove the upper and lower bolt that holds your caliper .

Then you can remove your brake line that is connected to your caliper .

They sell these at your auto part store there brake line plugs . To keep the brake lines or any line that has fluid from leaking out completly . Plus using this will give you plenty of time to do other things and keeps the moisture from contanimating inside your line . For those who do not know air contanimates brake fluid , Thats why you never leave your brake cap off or your brake lines open . It collects moisture .

Then you get your new caliper and bolt it on first .

Then you can put the brake line back on . Make sure you put the new copper rings on each side back on so that the line doesn't leak . Do not over tighten this is only hand tight . Then you fill up your brake fluid container so that you can bleed your caliper .

Then you bleed your caliper and remove all the air out . Some people have a self bleeder tool but since I wasn't alone I had some one pump the brake pedal hold it down I opened up the bleeder once they pushed the pedal to the ground I tighten the bleeder and then you repeat until all the air stops popping . To keep from spraying in your face you can put a hose on the nipple and a oil pan to catch the extra brake fluid . Do not reuse the old brake fluid . Do not bleed your brakes with the car running .

Once you are finished you recheck everything for leaks . Wipe down the are well . Have some one step on the brake and watch the caliper close and open then recheck your brake fluid container . Then put the tire back on . Test your brakes by driving slowly .

DIY Ball Joint Replacement Corolla 93 - 97

2010-03-12T08:58:00.000-08:00

This is a easy DIY of removing your ball joint .

Make sure your car is secure on jack stands . You don't have to remove the brake caliper to change this part . All you have to do is turn the wheel either left or right to expose the area .

First thing you do is remove the bottom nut of the sway bar link .

Then you remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt for the bottom of the ball joint . That is connected to the control arm and then you remove the castle nut holding the ball joint to the spindle .

Once you remove those nuts & bolts then you pull down the control arm .

Then you pull the whole spindle over then take out the ball joint .

The top photo is of the old ball joint and the bottom one is of the new one .

When you put the new ball joint back on it's best you put the spindle on first . Do not put the studs until after you line up the holes.

Then you insert the studs and tighten them down until the flat part of the stud lays flat . Do not be scared that your gonna bust the stud it's suppose to slide . Once it lies flat then you are good .
This is what it looks like when you are done .

When you are done then you tighten up your lug nuts and lower the car and then you are good to go .

DIY Front Wheel Bearing Corolla 93 - 97

2010-03-10T13:33:00.000-08:00

This DIY is of the front wheel bearing , These year vehicles do not have a HUB sealed bearing they have a bearing only and the HUB is sold seperatly only if needed . These must be pressed on and off .

First make sure you secure your rear tire and you use jack stands . Then once you jack up the vehicle you can start removing the tire and wheel .

Once the tire is off then you remove the cotter pin that holds the CV shaft through the bearing and the nut lock .

There are many ways you can remove the CV shaft nut . Since I was working alone I put the tire back on and lowered the car and then with my torque wrench I removed it . you can use a air gun , you can have someone step on the brake , You can do one side at a time but in this case I was doing both sides .

Then I removed the bolt that holds the brake line .

Then I removed my brake caliper and set it some where so it doesn't interfere or stretch the brake line .

Then I removed the break caliper bracket or the torque plate as the book calls it . Some people remove the whole bracket instead of the caliper but since I'm not in a rush I removed it in this order .

Then I ONLY loosen the nut on the bottom strut .

Then I ONLY loosen the top nut on the strut .

Then I removed the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the nut for the tie rod .

Then you remove the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the ball joint nut . The reason I say to loosen only these nuts cause you still have to remove the strut .

Once you have everything loosened up then you can put something on the bottom of the strut and lower the vehicle so that it presses the spring smaller . Then with your spring compressor you can put it on . this way makes it easier then having to compress the spring you have some added help here . Once you have your spring compressor secure then you can raise the vehicle . Remove the strut bolts and nuts .

Then you can gently start tapping out your tie rod , your bearing and your CV shaft .

Then there you have it the whole spindle and assembly . Ready to take it to a shop to have them press it on and off .

This is basically what you need a inner and outer seal and the front bearing if yoru hub is damaged then you have to purchase that .

The red arrow is the hub part and the yellow arrow is the bearing and the blue arrow is the outer seal .

The yellow arrows show the hub and the inner seal .

The first two pictures are what it should look like when you have the new bearings and front and rear seal pressed in . Then you press in the hub and then this is what it looks like when it is completed .

Then you put everything back together . Before you put your tire back on check and recheck all your bolts , nuts , cotter pins .

Then put your tire on lower your vehicle check and recheck your lug nuts .

DIY Installing Header 7AFE Corolla 93 - 97

2010-03-05T13:53:00.000-08:00

This DIY is for a 7AFE 1.8 motor .

This is a ceramic coated header and a magna high flow catalytic conveter .

First you must do is secure your vehicle . In this case I drove up on car ramps and jacked up one side of the rear and placed a floor jack for safety . Make sure you have plenty of room to work below and not be so cramped . Make sure you use a jack stands.

The first you do is remove the OEM exhaust cover . Then below you remove the 2 screws that are holding the oxygen sensor . Then you can loosen up the 5 bolts that hold the exhaust manifold to your head . It's better to remove the down pipe first then come back up to remove the exhaust manifold so that you don't hit the radiator and bend the fins .

I would start at the catalytic converter either unbolting or cutting the bolts off then , and unbolt the 3 nuts from the downpipe .

Once you have that removed then you can go back up and remove the exhaust manifold . You can use PB blaster to get the nuts off but if there so rusted it's better to replace them with high temp bolts you can buy from any hardware store .

Then once you have everything removed you can use your header gasket that came with your header and bolt down the 5 nuts back the the cylinder head and becareful you don't strip the stud in the head . Once you have that bolted down then you can put your oxygen sensor back on . Make sure you use the oxygen sensor gasket or else you will have have a leak from there and leaks are not good .

Then when you have the top bolted then you connect your down pipe using again your header gasket that came with your headers and then bolt the down pipe and your header together . I used lock type blue because these tend to rattle loose and off sometimes .

Now on your down pipe you have where the red arrow is showing a bracket where you put your down pipe mount .

If you do not use this then your exhaust system will shake and rattle . You need to put this back on your down pipe .

The red arrow is where you connect your bracket . Then you put your catalytic conveter on . Make sure you have the side with the heat shield facing down and make sure your OEM heat shield is there if not replace it with a aluminum piece . If you do not have this heat shield facing down when you park on a pile of leaves or dried grass the catalystic will catch it on fire . Make sure you use high temp bolts and lock washers so yoru bolts don't come loose . Once you have everything secure you recheck all your bolts and nuts . Then you start the car and listen for leaks . Once you feel you have a secure exhaust sytem then you can lower your car . You might smell some funny stuff but it's usally the coat on the header curing .

After a week goes by recheck your header nuts because sometimes the heat will flex the metal and they will come a little loose and all you have to do is hand tight . Check your oxygen sensor nuts . Check your other bolts too as a percaution . Do this for about 2 weeks and maybe a month after and you should be set . It's all up to you and how you maintain your vehicle . Everyone has there own way .

DIY 9005/9006 Bulb to H4 Conversion Corolla

2010-03-04T01:39:00.000-08:00

Connect prong 85 on the relay , to the red w/ green stripe wire on the high beam plug of the car. Connect prong 86 on the relay , to the red w/ yellow stripe wire on the same high beam plug.connect prong 30 on relay , to red w/ blue stripe wire on the low beam side plug. 87a prong on the relay goes to the top prong on the H4 bulb for low beam power. Connect prong 87 on relay to the right plug on the H4 bulb , for high beam power. Now ground the bulb , to either , the white w/ black stripe wire on the low beam plug or the chassis.

DIY Disable Day Light Running Lights Corolla 98 - 02

2010-03-03T13:28:00.000-08:00

This DIY will disconnect your day time running lights and your automatic lights . Not one or the other but both .

Remove three screws along the inside top seam of the glove box. Then by the kick panel on next to the passenger door, remove a 10mil bolt. Once the glove box is removed it should look like this (straight on...)

Next is locating the DRL RELAY box. You might have to lay down a little in the floor board and look up.... this is its location...

Next, you will have to remove the box from its little "snug" location. It slides off the metal piece. Just place a finger or two behind it and give it a little forceful tug and it should slide right off...

Now just pull it down a little and locate the RED WIRE WITH A BLUE LINE on it #23. Snip that wire... Make sure you put electrical tape on the ends of the exposed wire and leave enough wire so if you ever want to reconnect then you can at a later time .

DIY Tune Up & Oil Change Corolla 93 - 97

2010-02-28T14:44:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY for a complete tune up with a oil change .

First you make sure you wires are numbered or that you remember where you took the wires off the spark plug and the distributor cap . Putting these back on wrong will lead to your car not functioning correctly .

First you remove the spark plug wires and lay them above the cylinder so that you know the order that they are in . In this case we are gonna remove all the wires and change them out but if your wires are still good then you can do one spark plug at a time , remove and replace .

The spark plugs I used are the Denso K16R-U ( 3119 ) . Some auto parts stores don't carry them and they will try to sell you another brand or type of plug . Tell them to order them . Advance is the auto part store that carries the Denso plugs . Then you gap them at .032 . Make sure you find the gap for your vehicle . I looked in my manual and this is the plug that my car calls for .

Once I have gap my plugs then I put some anti seize so that they can be easily removed next time or else your plugs might be a little tight comming off . Then in this case I only put the plugs back in the proper cylinder and do not connect the wire to the plugs just rest them in so that you know the order of your wires to the distributor cap .

Then I removed my PCV and put a new one there . If it doesn't rattle then the PCV is clogged if it does rattle then it is ok .

Then I remove the cover for the air filter so that I can get to the distributor cap screws . Plus I can put a new air filter too .

Then you can remove the 3 screws that hold down the distributor cap .

Then with a flat head screw driver you remove the rotor button . It might feel tight but it does slide off . Becareful you don't lean on the cover inside and break it .

I recommend that you put a little bit of anti seize in the center so it won't be so tuff to take off the next time .

Then before you put your wires and yoru cap on put some dielectric grease on the spark plug wires so that they won't stick to the spark plug the next time you remove them and the distributor cap so that no moisture builds up in them . There is a rubber seal that the distributor cap should come with that goes on the bottom . Make sure you have that cause sometimes you have to replace your old one .

Make sure you take off the spark wire clips off the end for the distributor cap cause you are gonna need them and reuse them on your new wires . Then you put everything back in order . The distributor caps have numbers on then and sometimes the new plugs will too .

Then you go to the bottom of the oil pan and remove the oil pan drain bolt .

You might have to lower your car a little because the oil drain plug is facing the front and you need to even the car as much as you can with out squishing the plastic oil catcher . Let that drain until you see no more oil comming out of it .

Then keeping that oil pan catcher still underneath you remove the oil filter . Some cars you can remove it from the top or the bottom . Once you remove the oil filter you clean up all that area before putting your new filter on .

Then with some oil you put a little around the new rubber gasket area before putting the new filter on . You put the new oil filter on hand tight only . Then you make sure your oil drain plug is hand tight . Wipe up the area so that when you start your car you can look for any oil leaks .

Once you are completed then you start your car to make sure it is running correctly . Look for any oil leaks . Check your other fluids such as brake fluid , radiator coolant , power steering and transmission .

DIY Front & Rear Sway Bar Links Corolla 98 - 02

2010-02-27T03:47:00.001-08:00

If the boots on your end links are torn or you can wiggle the end links then you should replace them. Here is how!

Tools Needed:
14 MM wench
Allen wench socket set
Creeper
Anti-seize grease

To replace the front end links:

1)Jack up your car and put the front wheels on jack stands. You don't have to remove the wheels, but it makes it easier to give you access and leverage to take the bolts off and on.

2) Make sure both your front wheels are off the ground and on jack stands to take tension off the swaybar. Trust me, it is a lot harder to take the swaybar off and on if there is tension on the bar.

3) Stick your Allen wrench into the center of each end link bolt to keep the bolt from turning as you loosen it with your 14MM wench. Out comes the end link.

4) Repeat for the other side.

5) Then use anti-seize grease on the threads of your new end links. Installation is the reverse of the steps to take them off.

To replace the rear end links:

1) Jack up your car and put the rear wheels on jack stands. Make sure both rear wheels are off the ground to take the tension off the swaybar on the end links.

2) Take off your rear wheels.

3) Take the Allen wrench and stick it into the center of the bolt in the end link to keep the end link from turning and use the 14MM wench to loosen the nut.

4) Do this for the other nut and out comes the end link.

5) Repeat the above steps for the other side and installation is the reverse of how you took it out. Make sure you use anti-seize grease on the threads of your new end links.

DIY Coolant Flush & Maintenance Corolla 93 - 97

2010-02-26T07:24:00.000-08:00

This DIY is for replacing the radiator hoses , thermostat and flushing your coolant . Especially if your hoses been on you car for at least 5 yrs and you haven't flushed your system out or you haven't been using proper coolant and using water . Plus check your heater hoses to .

First you should remove the distributor cap so that you can have more room to get to the thermostat . You do not have to remove the wires .

After that then you can remove the air filter box completely . While you have this off it's best that you clean the inside before putting this air filter box back on .

Then you put a oil pan under the radiator drain plug and then unscrew the plug and let the radiator coolant drain into the pan .

Then remove the pan, Do not close the drain plug yet . Now if you weren't gonna replace the hoses or thermostat then you would put your water hose in the radiator and start your car and put the heat on inside the car and flush the whole system out until you see clear water flowing out the drain plug . The reason you have the car running is so that the thermostat can open up and the reason you have the heater on is so that the heater core is opened up and you can flush the heater core at the same time . Once you see clear water draining then shut your vehicle off and your hose and just let the rest of the water run out completely . Then see below on how to fill up your radiator .

Now with your pliers you then remove the hose clamps around the upper and lower hoses . Some people might have the one's with the screw driver then you would unscrew them . Some people replace the OEM hose clamps to the screw one's and some people reuse the OEM clamps . In this case I will reuse the OEM clamps cause there not rusted and they look fairly new .

To get to the bottom hose clamp for the lower hose you have to remove the water shield first . It's like three bolts holding it . You do not have to remove it completely just unbolt it enough to see the bottom hose clamp .

Then you can remove the thermostat housing . First you have to unplug the temperature switch wire . Then with a 10mm you can remove the two nuts . Be careful don't lose these nuts .

Once you remove the thermostat housing it is important to remember how the thermostat sits . The deep part goes inside the block . You can reuse the rubber gasket for your new thermostat but inspect first . As long as the gasket isn't pinched or cracked you can reuse it . That's why when they sell you the new thermostat it doesn't come with the gasket .

Since you remove the hoses now you can put your water hose in the upper part and flush out the block . Do not run your car for this . Flush until you see clear water coming out of the bottom of the block . Then of course you flush out your radiator . Try not to wet your distributor since the cap is off and the inside will be exposed .

Then with your mini wire brush you can get any corrosion that is around the thermostat housing and around the all the areas that the hoses will be replaced .

Some people don't and you really don't have to but I put just a tiny bit of water pump/thermostat silicone only on the housing part . Make sure the thermostat area is dry before putting your housing back on . Very important when you tighten the nut for the housing that you DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN . This is only hand tight . The stud will break very easily if you over tighten .

Then with a pack of hose grease that they sell in the auto parts store you put some on the inside of the hoses you are replacing . This I recommend because the next time you replace your radiator hose or ever have to take it off to work on something else it will be so much easier to remove your hoses and your hoses will not stick around the areas you clamp . Then you can put your distributor cap back on and air filter box .

I use water wetter because you can use this in any type of climate or vehicle and in the summer when you use your A/C or if you run hotter spark plugs in your car this product is awesome . This is product is used for all water cooled vehicles . This will make your car run up to 20% cooler , improves heat transfer and lubricates your water pump seals and reduces rust . Can be used with all antifreeze coolants .

Once you put all your hoses on and then you tighten up the radiator drain plug . Then you can add your water wetter in first , Then your antifreeze coolant you can either buy the premix 50/50 or you can buy the one that you mix yourself with water . Do not pour straight antifreeze coolant into your radiator . Best if you have another jug or bucket when you mix the coolant with the water . Then as you are pouring your antifreeze coolant turn your vehicle on and put the heater on and keep and eye on the opening of the radiator for bubbles . Run the car for awhile and keep refilling until you see no more bubbles and the radiator is full . With the rest of your coolant put some in the over flow tank.

Then with in a few days of driving your vehicle check the over flow to see if you need to add any more coolant in your over flow tank . Now you are ready for long distance driving with out over heating or hoses bursting .

DIY Shift Lock Control System Corolla 98 - 02

2010-02-21T08:13:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY for automatic transmission with a OEM shifter handle not a aftermarket . Because a aftermarket handle if not adjusted correctly will act as if the shift lock control system isn't working .

This shift lock control system prevents you from taking your car out of park while it's running and prevents a child from accidently putting the car in gear unless you step on the brake pedal . Plus it will prevent you to take your key out of the car unless your vehicle is locked in park to prevent it from jumping out of park and rolling down the road .

How would you know if it's your shift lock control and not your transmission ? A simple test will determine that . You have a over ride button above the P . You stick a flat head screw driver and push the button down and see if your car comes out of park . If it does then your shift lock control system is not working . Spilling coffee or water or soda over time will short this out as in my case .

First you remove the frame around the shifter and the two screws on each side that hold the center console cover .

Then you put your parking brake on while doing the rest of the DIY . You carefully put the car in L3 by using the over ride button so you won't need the key in the ignition in the on position and then remove the center face but carefully pull it out slowly cause your lighter is still connected . Then you unplug your lighter and remove this . It's best to put black wire over your expose lighter wires cause when you test the shift control you do not want these wires to be exposed and hit any metal .

Then you open your glove box up and remove the three screws across the top . Make sure you put all your screws some where that you wont lose them .

Then with your 10mm socket you remove the bolt on the bottom left of the glove compartment box .

Then you pull the glove compartment box down and you will see another screw holder the center console . Again keep all your screws and bolts some where so you dont lose them .

Then you go to the drivers side and remove the bottom bolt above the gas pedal which holds the panel .

Once you remove that bolt then you unsnap the panel cover to expose the screw that is holding the center console .

Then you unscrew the middle compartment box because the screws are screwed to a metal brace and this will prevent you from taking that whole center piece out .

Then with a 12mm socket you remove the two bolts holding that back park of your center console . At this point you cant seperate the front piece from the back piece . Then you slide that over the parking brake . Remember your car is still in L3 so keep your brake up .

Then you can pull the center console towards you . It might give you problems but be patient look to see where it gets hung up .

Then you unscrew the two screws that hold the shifter cover . You can remove the handle to take this off completly but in my case all I did was raise it up and twist it out of the way to get to the shift lock system .

Then you unplug the shift lock control system and unscrew the two screws holding the unit down .

This is a very important reminder . Yes you can drive your vehicle with out this unit . But you are taking a chance your car can pop out of gear , you can shut your car off while in gear and remove the key , you can think you have your car in park and not know it , a child can easily change the gears , you can accidently hit it out of gear . So in my opinion your life isn't worth taking a chance not having this . This unit I have I removed from a geo prizm so they interchange . One is white the other is back thats the only difference .

Keeping your car still in L3 now you put back and screw down your new shift lock system and then plug it in . Once you have completed that then put your car in park . It should automatically lock .

Now you can put your key back into the ignition switch and turn the vehicle switch on but DO NOT START THE CAR . Only in the on position then with your hand push down on the brake pedal and then you should be able to take your car out of gear with ease .

Once you have completed your test remove the key and then you can put it all back together again .

DIY Painting Valve Cover Corolla 93 - 97

2010-02-20T12:20:00.000-08:00

This DIY is just to give you ideas and to show you that you can make your valve cover look descent . So that you can open your hood up with pride .

You can use header paint or engine paint . Just depends on the color you are searching for . Make sure you buy a white & engine clear coat .

This was my motor when I purchased my car . All you have to do is remove the valve cover , Make sure you remember where the wires go you can mark them or lay them in order . It is best to replace your valve cover gasket and grommets and spark plug tube seals . Another important thing is lay a towel over the exposed camshafts , So that dirt or sand doesn't get in there from the wind because this will take time to dry before you put your valve back on .

Once you have the valve cover off you need to pop out the tube seals with a flat head screw driver from the top . There are little hold down things that stick out on the inside you can bend them but make sure you bend them back when you put the new tube seals in .

In this case I used simple green but you can use any degreaser . Spray and let it settle for awhile . Then you get a brush with regular soap and water . Spray degreaser as needed .

Then with a wire brush you get it smooth or anything the degreaser or brush couldn't get . Then for the final clean respray the degreaser and rinse one more time and then let the valve cover completely dry.

Once it is dried you tape off the 16 valve sticker .

Then with your white engine/header paint you paint the valve cover as a primer and then leave it in the sun to cure . The reason I used white so that the white can transfer through the main color and bring out the natural color and make it bright . If you don't prime it white and decide to just paint the valve cover then the color will be a little darker and the color might change over time .

Once the primer has dried then you spray your main color and leave it in the sun to cure . Once your paint has dried then you use the blue painters tape and leaving the center piece exposed and then spray it black . If you dont want to paint the center black then leave it as is , It's all your choice . Then you let that dry and cure then remove the tape .

Then you get a few Q-tips and with your black paint you spray the tip of it and then slowly follow the lines . You might have to do this process a few times till it gets black . Then you let the paint dry . Then with your clear coat you spray the valve cover about 3 coats . Every time let it dry then spray . Let it cure in the sun . Then you can put your valve cover back on .

This is the one in my car . It's all about how you want your valve cover color. There is no such thing as copying . If you dont want to make black lines then don't like I said it's your valve cover this is just to get you inspired to take a little pride in your Corolla when you open up the hood .

DIY Replacement Door Handles Inside & Out Corolla 93 - 97

2010-02-19T10:37:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY of both inside & outside door handles .

Basically you unscrew the inside old door handle and with your new inside door handle you put it back on make sure you clip the plastic yellow clip to the rod or else over time it will pop out .

Once you clipped the plastic on the rod you gently screw the screw back with out over tightening or else the inside of the handle will crack . Make it snug but secure .

Now the DIY of the outside door handle .

First you remove the inside door handle again unclip the plastic clip , Make sure when you put the door back together that this clip gets back on .

Then with a flat head screw driver you lift up the arm rest piece to expose the two screws holding the arm rest to the door .

Then you remove the triangle plate for the outside mirror .

Then you remove the plastic shield , Make sure you put this back on it is there for a reason .

Then you unplug the power window motor switch .

Then you unscrew the two bolts on the inside that hold the outside handle .

As shown in the photo the white arrow is a yellow clip with your finger all you have to do is unclip this . The red arrow is for the lock you do not have to unclip that .

With a flath ead screw driver once you unclip that clip you pop out the door handle rod . Make sure you put this clip back on when you put the new handle in .

Once you remove all that then you lift up on the whole handle and pull it out and then in reverse you put it all back together .

This is what it will look like when you are all finished .

DIY Rear Strut Replacement Corolla 98 - 02

2010-02-19T09:32:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY of rear struts with coil over sleeves . It still can be a DIY with OEM springs , you just omitt the areas for the sleeve .

First you jack your car up and place it on jack stands for safety . As you can see in this photo I do not need a spring compressor but if you are working with OEM springs then you need to use the proper tools which is the spring compressor which you can rent for free at any local auto parts store .

Once you have the car secure you and your spring secure then remove the brake line . Remember to bleed the brake line when you put this back together . If you do not have to unscrew the brake line then you do not have to bleed . There is a clip there to once you unscrew the brake line then with a flat head screw driver you push the clip aside .

Then you remove the rear sway bar link using a wrench and allen key . Make sure when you put this back on you add some anti seize for easier future removal .

Then you loosen the bottom two bolts do not take them fully off . Until you remove the top one after . Loosen this up first because if you take off the top nut then strut will turn while trying to take the bottom bolts off . When you put the bolts back on use anti seize .

Then if your vehicle has the back seats that come down then you pull down your back seat . If your vehicle back seat doesnt come down then you have to remove the back part . Once you pull your back seat down you will see a flap as shown in the photo , Pull the flap towards you then unscrew the top nut . Again when you put this back on use anti seize .

Once you have them off make sure you have the correct side . The rear struts are the only struts on the car that have a left or a right .

Now this part is only for those who have coil over sleeves and the sleeve will not fit over the strut shaft because of a obstruction of the top part . This will not void your warranty unless your dum enough to tell them what you did .

Now with your drill you drill out the three weld marks . Leaving the clip still on the strut to help you out for needed stress . You do not drill all the way . All you are doing is basicailly removing the weld spot not drilling through the strut shaft .

You can drill a little and tap with the a hammer and keep doing this until you see the clip lifting up that flat piece , and as shown in this photo your piece will come off .

Now if in the future if you do not want to open the brake lines you can cut out a piece on the strut as shown in the photo so that you can slide it in and out . This is so much easier

Once you do that then you can put your brake line back and put the clip back so it can hold it there . If you opened up your brake line do not forget to bleed your brakes .

Then once everything is back on this is what you should have . If you still have your OEM springs make sure you use your spring compressor tool .

Then you put the wheel back on make sure you tighten your lugs nuts .

DIY Rear Hub Wheel Bearing Corolla 98 - 02

2010-02-19T08:44:00.000-08:00

This is a easy DIY on replacing your rear hub bearing with out taking your rear brakes off .

First you jack your car up and for safety you place it on a floor jack . Then you remove the brake drum off . Once you remove the brake drum you turn your the bearing until the hole lines up with the four bolts that hold it .

Once you remove the bolts then you can remove the bearing , You might need a rubber hammer to tap it off . Then you get brake cleaner and spray the area to clean it up . Remove any grease there . While you you are there check out your wheel cylinders for leakage and your brake shoes for any wear . Give them a lightly sanding if they look shinny .

Compare the two hub bearing . The OEM has a open back and the aftermarket has a sealed back . .

Then you can put your hub bearing back on put some anti seize on the bolts then tighten and recheck . Spin it . Put some anti seize on the studs . Put your brake drum back on and adjust your rear brakes if necessary .

Then put your wheel back on , make sure you tighten up your lug nuts and then you are done .

DIY Rear Corner Vent Glass Window Replacement Corolla 93 - 97

2010-02-19T04:56:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY of the rear vent glass window . That's what it is called if you ever purchase one from the junk yard .

First you unscrew and remove the inside door handle and don't forget to pop the plastic clip with out breaking it . ( Reminder : When you put the handle back on don't forget to put this plastic clip back on . )

Then you unscrew the door arm rest .

From there you pull up on the door panel being careful you don't break the panel and make sure all the panel fasteners are in the back of the panel so when you put this back on it will hold properly .

Then you unplug the power window motor . If you have manual window handles there is a clip behind the handle you can pop out with a flat head screw driver .

Then you remove the plastic on the door , Make sure you put this back on when you are finished with your project it's there for a reason .

Since the window is broken you can remove the rubber molding that holds the window in place . You can reuse it if you only purchased the window but in this DIY the window came with it . So it's best you just keep this for future use .

With the back window halfway down you remove the bolts that hold the window motor , Before removing the last bolt hold the glass to keep from dropping and shattering .

Once you remove the last bolt raise the window up by hand and release the wheel from the bottom of the window . Then you remove the window motor out and then you slowly bring the window all the way down till it stops and leave it there .

Then you remove the two bolts that hold the frame of the vent glass .

Then when that is loose you gently push the frame till you see it pulling away from the window in the door .

Then you can remove the window gently . If you have tinted windows you have to be very patient you do not scratch your tint . Place it some where so it doesn't break or fall .

Then you gently with out breaking the weld spot on the top of the frame you pull the vent frame towards the front .

Then you remove the molding with a flat head screw driver being careful you do not break the plastic snaps .

Then with your new window with the mold around it you put in your glass . Push the vent frame back but do not bolt it yet .

Then you remove the side molding on the inside of the back window on both sides but do not remove the top part of the door only the sides . Once you have them removed you can now put the back window in the track and there it will sit very loosely .

Then you can slide the rubber molding down on each side of the window till it is back to normal then you can start putting the window motor back on and then tighten the frame and put it all back together . I did not need any soap or anything to put the molding back it slid down perfectly.

Then when you are done it should look like this .

DIY Front Seat Belt Replacement Corolla 93 - 97

2010-02-18T05:53:00.000-08:00

This is a very simple DIY . I purchased another seat belt from my local junk yard .

First you remove the plastic panel cover that so that you can expose the the seat belt cause one side runs behind the plastic panel cover and the seat belt box has a bolt holding it in place .

Then you go to the bottom and remove the bolt . There is a bolt cover so you must lift it up . Then right above this is the seat belt box where there is another bolt you have to remove to .

Then with a flat head you lift up the flap to expose the top bolt .

Then you remove the top bolt and then you are done removing it , Then you reverse the procedure and put your replacement seat belt back on .

DIY Oil Catch Can Installment Corolla 93 - 97

2010-02-17T06:21:00.000-08:00

Oil Catch Can takes the oily air that normally comes from the crankcase ventilation (either by the valve cover or from the PCV valve) and send it through the tank so the oil gets trapped in a cleanable canister (the can) while the air gas re-routed to the intake. The catch can is not a reservoir or oil supply. The gunk that accumulates in it should be cleaned out and disposed of properly. Highly recommended on fuel injection cars mounted between the PCV and intake. Without a catch-can, all that oil/carbon gunk builds-up on the tips of the injectors and can cause pre-igntion (pinging) over time.

One of the main things is to find a open spot for the catch can . It can be placed any where you just have to purchase longer hoses .

The oil catch can comes with hoses but I highly recomend you use from the auto parts store they sell them by the inch . For this purpose I used a hose for show but later on I changed the hose to the black hose from my local auto parts store .

It is best to get a oil catch can that you can remove the top and not a fully sealed one . This makes it easier to clean and in this photo I added some steel wool to soak up the extra oil . ( The reason I put the steel wool is cause with it being empty the oil will splash around and possibly re-enter into the intake . )

Once you find your location then you screw the bracket tightly enough so that the catch can doesn't get loose or rattles . You can add meduim lock tight on the screws if you like .

You remove the the hose as shown in the blue arrows and you add a breather on the valve cover and in the intake you just cut a piece of hose and put a screw in it so that you seal it off . This keeps the heat from the crankcase entering your intake and releasing out of the breather . The green arrow shows the PCV where you will hook up your hose for your oil catch can and on the other side is the bottom of the intake .

Then you connect your hose having the one from the PCV enter the catch can and the other hose going directly to the bottom of the intake .

Then in the end it will look like this . This is a very simple modification . This in no way adds performance but it keeps the fuel and the oil from mixing as it enters your intake . Which gives you better gas mileage , long lasting injectors especially in older running cars .

DIY Rear Speaker 6x9 Conversion Corolla 98 - 02

2010-02-16T06:14:00.000-08:00

This is a Conversion of my rear speakers from a 6 1/2 to a 6x9 upgrade .

First you remove the back panel and third brake light . Once you remove the back panel then you remove your stock speakers . The Blue arrow shows where I re-used the stock wire plug and added the new wire with a crimp so that the new wire can be plugged into the new speaker . Then you get your 6x9 speaker and put the magnet in the hole and rest the new speaker on the metal . With a black marker you out line on how much you want to cut . With your dremel then you cut your hole as where the Red arrows are showing . But don't over cut the hole it's better if you start small then stick the 6x9 back in the hole to see where you are at . The green arrow shows I removed the child seat belt because I don't need it but if you are using it then don't remove it . ( Warning : Cut from the top not from the trunk and be careful for the window you don't let the dremel jump . You need steady hands and patients . You are working in a small area .)

You want your 6x9 to lay as flat as it can but you want the speaker to be even and flush with the top part that is shown with the Yellow Arrow . Each side is different . Carefully put your speaker wire in a open space to keep from rubbing on the metal . Then what I did in this case was get some clear silicone and where the Blue arrows are showing I added a dap of silicone to hold the speaker down . You can use screws but it is a tight area . But silicone will hold the speaker and act as a glue . ( Do Not over put the silicone just enough that the speaker and your flat surface are connecting so that it will dry together . Use your own discretion . )

While that speakers are drying then you get your back speaker panel and remove the speaker guards and cut open a hole bigger so that when you lay your panel down it will not rest on the 6x9 but yet lay even with it . I used a black felt carpet as my mold layer that I bought from Walmart and then I bought my tan materiel to . The reason for the felt carpet in my case is cause the tan material was to thin and I didnt want it to fall into the hole I made for the speaker so I used the felt as my mold carpet .

With the spray adhesive I sprayed the panel and then spread the felt trying not to get and wrinkles . Then I trimmed the felt .

Then I sprayed the felt and then layed my final material over it again trying not to get wrinkles but since I'm not a proffesional I can only do my best . Once you have the material on then you trim around the edges be careful you don't short yourself some material . ( Since I don't need my third brake light I didnt cut a hole there because I have a rear wing with my third brake light . But if you don't have a wing with a brake light then you need to cut a X where the third brake light goes so you can put it back on . )

Then before you lay your panel to cover your speakers your speakers should be dried up or at least some what near dry and they should look like this . In this I used the Pioneer 3 way but you can use any 6x9 upgrade . Make sure you test your speakers before your final stage and make sure no exposed wires are touching any metal , use black wire tape if necessary .

Then you place the back panel back on and it should look like this . You may see just a little wrinkles but to be honest in person you can't even see them . I tried many photos but the camera wants to catch every detail . ( Heads Up : The car will smell like spray adhesive and silicone for a few days don't panic the smell will go away . )

DIY Front Doors Speaker Replacement Corolla 98 - 02

2010-02-15T09:11:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY of Front Door Speakers . The replacement or upgrade .

First you remove the door handle with a phillips screw driver . ( Warning : When you are putting the door handle back DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREW make it snug so that the inside of the handle doesn't crack )

Then with a flat head screw driver you pop the plastic piece gently off the metal rod that connects to the handle lever . ( Important : When putting this back make sure the plastic snaps around the rod or else the rod will pop out of the lever handle )

Then with a flat head screw driver you pop up the arm rest to uncover the two screws that are holding the door panel to the door .

Then with a phillips screw driver you remove the 2 screws . ( Reminder : It is very important to put these screws back or else the panel will rattle , plus you are screwing into a plastic piece so dont over tighten )

Remove the side mirror bolt cover panel .

Then pull from the bottom of the panel away from the door and you will hear snapping sounds be very careful you dont pull it hard all the way off because the window switch plug is still plugged in . ( Reminder : You may need a flat head screw driver to help you at first and make sure all the plastic snaps come out if they didnt then pop them out and put then back where they belong on the door panel makes it easier to put the panel back and keeps it from rattling . )

Unplug the window switch plug then remove the panel and put it aside so that you have a nice view of the door . ( Reminder : Make sure you plug this back before you put the panel back and test the window lift motor . )

Then your speaker will be exposed . ( If you like you can remove the plastic shield so that you can see the speaker wiring or you can pull down the plastic shield half way off with removing it . )

With a chisel you can remove the plastic rivet that is holding your OEM speaker frame to the door . Once you break the rivits you unplug the speaker and then remove the whole spreaker and frame .

With a dremel you cut off the frame of the speaker that holds the magnic , because this frame can be re-used for your new speakers .

Once you remove the old speaker then with your new speaker you first wire up using the same connector as your OEM speaker , Then once you do that then you align your aftermarket speaker to the frame and mark off where you will be placing new holes . After you drill your holes then you tightly screw the aftermarket speaker to the frame . ( In this case I used Pioneer 3 way speaker 6 1/2 . )

Then once you are done you wire up the speaker so that when you put the frame with your new aftermarket speaker you can hide the wires correctly so that they don't get caught on the window track . Then with new rivets you realign the frame holes and rivit your frame to the door .

Then in the end your speaker should look like this . Before you put everything back on make sure your speakers are playing correctly , Then you reverse the order you took off to put the door panel back on .

DIY Rear Lowering Springs for a Corolla 03 - 08

2010-02-07T14:57:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY for a 9th gen from OEM to H&R springs .

First you just crack loose the lug nuts .

Then you slide your floor jack to and place it at the strongest point of your corolla . Usally it's where your OEM jack would go .

Then you go to the trunk and pull away the carpet and the top of the rear strut wgere the nut is will be exposed . Then you take your allen key and open end wrench and you remove the nut all the way first .

Then you go to the bottom of the strut with a torque wrench and you remove the bottom nut that is holding the bottom of the strut . Once you remove the nut then you get a rubber mallot and you gently tap the strut to the side as it slides on the bottom welded bolt but be careful cause it will snap down to the floor because of the tension of the spring , If you like you can put a blanket there or something to soften the blow . But it's not enough to do any damage to the strut or floor . It will only snap downward .

Then you remove the OEM spring and replace it with your aftermarket spring . Then you just reverse the instalment . You might need a spring compressor tool to put the rear back on . Then when you are done it should looks like this . In this vehicle we put H&R springs.

Then you snug the lug nuts in a star formation and then lower the car until the tire touches the ground and then tighten up the rest of the way and torque if needed .

DIY Front Lowering Springs for a Corolla 03 - 08

2010-02-05T21:08:00.000-08:00

This is a DIY for a 9th gen from OEM to H&R springs .

First you just crack loose the lug nuts .

Then you slide your floor jack to and place it at the strongest point of your corolla . Usally it's where your OEM jack would go .

Then with a allen key and a open end wrench you remove the top nut for the sway bar link .

Then you push it out of the way . If it feels stuck then with a RUBBER mallet gently tap it out .

In this situation I placed a floor jack under the lower control arm and slightly lowered the corolla , As it is resting on the control arm pushing up so that it closes the spring before removing the upper nut for the strut .

Then I removed the two nuts for the bottom strut but do not remove the bolt so that it keeps the strut in place and the tension of the spring .

Then you go to the top of the strut and remove the nut that holds the top of the strut .

Then you raise your corolla up slowly so that the spring opens up and releases the spring tension and once that is completed you remove the bolts for the bottom strut . Then you remove the OEM spring and replace it with the aftermarket spring . ( Reminder : When you are putting this all back together use some anti seize for your bolts and studs so that the next time you need to get in there it will be easy to remove . )

Then you snug the lug nuts in a star formation and then lower the car until the tire touches the ground and then tighten up the rest of the way and torque if needed .

Then when you are done it should looks like this . In this vehicle we put H&R springs.

DIY White Face Glow Gauge Corolla 98 - 02

2010-02-04T11:14:00.000-08:00

First you remove the 2 srews with a short phillips screw driver .

Then you pull up from the bottom the face cover towards the steering wheel , Do not be afraid to pull it will pop out .

If you have a tilt wheel make sure your wheel is down cause it will get tight . Then you slide the face over make sure your wiper arm switch is down .

Once you remove the face plate there are 4 screws holding the cluster . The red arrows show where the screws are . Your gonna need a longer phillips screw driver . One with a magnetic tip will work better cause it will be to tight to put your finger in there and it might drop.

Then you remove the platic cluster cover . I have marked a blue arrow so you know where the clips are . Once you remove the plastic cover then with out touching the needles to the cluster you can remove the tiny screws , those are the ones marked in red . Make sure you don't lose these screws. Then you remove the black cover so that you can put the white glow gauges and run the wire .

Then you carefully slide the white glow gauges through the needle and you must be real careful you dont move those needles or bend them or else your will mess up the cluster . Once your done sliding the white glow gauges then you align and re-screw the tiny screws . Then you put the black cover and then you can put the clear plastic back on the cluster . Make sure your fuel one is correctly aligned !!

Then you get the positive wire and put in where the parking light fuse is located as shown with the red arrow and then the other wire you put to the ground wire .

Since I don't use this storage box and didn't want to make holes I just neatly stuck it in there and closed it up .

Then you test out your white face glow gauge and then you can just put it all back together .

DIY How To Remove Tint Safely With Rear a Window Defogger

2010-02-03T12:23:00.000-08:00

This is how you remove your tint safely with out damaging your rear window defogger . First you need is a black garbage bag & Windex with Amonia , squeegee plus some cheese cloth and you need a nice hot sunny day . With humidity is even better .

I removed the speaker cover or you can place a towel because this is a wet and messy process . You cut open the black garbage bag so that it can cover the rear window . Then you make sure your window is facing the sun , Then you spray alot of windex on the window so that it stays wet then you apply the garbage bag as if you were tinting your windows using the squeegee , make sure the bag sticks 100% if you have to re-apply more windex . Once you have the bag looking like the photo then you can let it sit for 1hr . If you want you can do this procedure to the other windows in your car .

After the hour has passed you remove the black plastic bag , Then you find a corner on the tint and peel , The tint will pull away easily and might leave some glue on it but that you can easily remove it once you remove the tint you can spray more windex and with your cheese cloth and your elbow wipe away until all of the glue is removed . The windex with amonia will eat the glue . If your tint had bubbles before you applied the plastic bag you might have to repeat this until you get that glue soft .

This will be the end results . With out using a razor blade and you saved your rear window defogger . Do not get fustrated if your having problems with the tint with bubbles in it . It will come out . You just have to repeat the steps . You might go through one bottle of windex . You might have to do it over days .

DIY Aftermarket Cigarette Lighter Corolla 98 - 02

2010-01-27T20:51:00.000-08:00

As you can see the aftermarket lighter is to the right and the OEM is to your left . For those who don't have the money to buy a OEM or find a OEM in the junk yard here is a DIY on how to replace one with a small budget .

As you can see the plastic cover on the left but the aftermarket has the ground sleeve and with out that it wont work but the lighter is to small for the OEM hole and you can put the plastic for the aftermarket . But I came up with a way for the new lighter to stay and look clean .

First you remove the ash tray then you pull out the face plate off . You have to pull from the bottom up . But dont pull to hard cause the lighter wires and the ash tray light wire is hooked up .

Then you remember the bulb for the ash tray and then you remove the wires for the ash tray . Make sure you don't have the key in the ignition turned on or else you will shirt out the lighter fuse .

Once you have everything removed then you get some black silicone and place the lighter halfway or as far as you want it to stick out . Then squeeze some silicone on your finger and then fill in the gap making it look flush and smooth like in the photo . Then you let it dry for about 20 minutes before you connect it to the face plate .

Before you put the black sleeve to the face plate you add a little silicone behind it and push gently making sure you dont put alot so that it doesnt squeeze through if not then just wipe it away and make it look clean .

Then behind the lighter you add some more silicone so that the back of the aftermarket lighter is supported . Make sure your lighter is straight while you are doing this . Then let this dry for another 20 minutes before connecting .

Then connect your wires make sure the wire with the black line goes to the ground clip and the other goes to the positive . Make sure it clips tight but you can use wire tape to wrap it for extra safety . Then you put the light back into the ash tray .

Before you put the face plate back on make sure it looks like this and everything is dried . At this point you can check to see if your lighter is working . Once you completed your checks then you can push back the face place .

When its all done it should look like this , Nice and clean perfectly solid . The reason I used black silicone was to match up the round plate and during the day you cant even tell if you put silicone there .

Then when you are done you can either put the lighter part back in or plug in your adapters , and this is what it will look like .

There you have it a aftermarket lighter looking clean .

DIY Cooling Radiator Cooling Plate Corolla 93 - 97

2010-01-24T18:49:00.000-08:00

The making of a Radiator Cooling Shield .

First you remove the screws on the top that hold the front grille .

In the bottom of the back of the grille is a snap thing that you have to open apart then the bottom will push out .

Then you pull forward gently not breaking the snap thing in the back .

Then with a 12m socket you remove the radiator hold down brackets.

Then you lay the aluminum sheet metal flush to the edge where you see my finger then you mark the holes to drill and tap on the center so that the hinge will make a tiny indent . Then you drill in the center .

Once you make the hole in the center you then put just the bolts back to hold the shield in place so that you can cut the center out where the hood hinge and handle is at .

Once you have it lined up then you grab your dremel and you cut the are where you can expose the hinger area first , Then you cut open the area where the handle for the hood can be exposed .

Once you finished then it should look like this . You would still need to trim it some more but you don't do that until after you make the bends of the aluminum sheet metal .

Then with a rubber mallot you bang the metal so that it forms the same shape as the radiator frame and the hood rod area so when you lay the hood rod down it will have enough room with out messing up your sheet metal when you close the hood . When you are finished it will look like this . ( Reminder - Then you can trim open up the hole a little wider because you need that metal to lay as flat as you can . )

Then you gently lay the hood down making sure the hook and the handle are clear so that you can open your hood and that you can close the hood to . It should look like this .

Then you put the grille back on and then you close the hood so that the metal lays straight and the hood will give you a leading edge to mark off with a marker . Try to get under the hood a little but not to short . Because the metal will tuck under the grille .

Behind the grille will be some plastic tabs that need to be cut . Do not worry this will not affect the integrity of the grille , But will make it easier for the metal to slide under the top lip of the grille . ( Advice - The more that is under the lip the better your shield will set and be lower in the front .)

Then you remove the grill cut across and put the piece of metal back then you put the grill back . This is what your shield should look like when it is all done ready to be painted . ( Reminder - You have to remove the shield by the bolts first cause you wont be able to reach the snap thing on the bottom anymore .)

Then with a grinder stone you round the edges so that it looks clean and remove the metals sticking out . Then you can sand the sheild and clean it with degreaser before you paint it .

Once you painted your sheild you bolt it back with the radiator brackets . Do not but the grill back on yet . Because you still have to check out the hood rod .

Then you put the grill back on and re-check the hood rod and make sure you have clearance .

Then you bring the hood down and re-check the handle and once you feel that every thing is ok then you close the hood completly .

Then you open your hood up and this is what it should look like when you are done .