This DIY is of the front wheel bearing , These year vehicles do not have a HUB sealed bearing they have a bearing only and the HUB is sold seperatly only if needed . These must be pressed on and off .
First make sure you secure your rear tire and you use jack stands . Then once you jack up the vehicle you can start removing the tire and wheel .
Once the tire is off then you remove the cotter pin that holds the CV shaft through the bearing and the nut lock .
There are many ways you can remove the CV shaft nut . Since I was working alone I put the tire back on and lowered the car and then with my torque wrench I removed it . you can use a air gun , you can have someone step on the brake , You can do one side at a time but in this case I was doing both sides .
Then I removed the bolt that holds the brake line .
Then I removed my brake caliper and set it some where so it doesn't interfere or stretch the brake line .
Then I removed the break caliper bracket or the torque plate as the book calls it . Some people remove the whole bracket instead of the caliper but since I'm not in a rush I removed it in this order .
Then I ONLY loosen the nut on the bottom strut .
Then I ONLY loosen the top nut on the strut .
Then I removed the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the nut for the tie rod .
Then you remove the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the ball joint nut . The reason I say to loosen only these nuts cause you still have to remove the strut .
Once you have everything loosened up then you can put something on the bottom of the strut and lower the vehicle so that it presses the spring smaller . Then with your spring compressor you can put it on . this way makes it easier then having to compress the spring you have some added help here . Once you have your spring compressor secure then you can raise the vehicle . Remove the strut bolts and nuts .
Then you can gently start tapping out your tie rod , your bearing and your CV shaft .
Then there you have it the whole spindle and assembly . Ready to take it to a shop to have them press it on and off .
This is basically what you need a inner and outer seal and the front bearing if yoru hub is damaged then you have to purchase that .
The red arrow is the hub part and the yellow arrow is the bearing and the blue arrow is the outer seal .
The yellow arrows show the hub and the inner seal .
The first two pictures are what it should look like when you have the new bearings and front and rear seal pressed in . Then you press in the hub and then this is what it looks like when it is completed .
Then you put everything back together . Before you put your tire back on check and recheck all your bolts , nuts , cotter pins .
Then put your tire on lower your vehicle check and recheck your lug nuts .
First make sure you secure your rear tire and you use jack stands . Then once you jack up the vehicle you can start removing the tire and wheel .
Once the tire is off then you remove the cotter pin that holds the CV shaft through the bearing and the nut lock .
There are many ways you can remove the CV shaft nut . Since I was working alone I put the tire back on and lowered the car and then with my torque wrench I removed it . you can use a air gun , you can have someone step on the brake , You can do one side at a time but in this case I was doing both sides .
Then I removed the bolt that holds the brake line .
Then I removed my brake caliper and set it some where so it doesn't interfere or stretch the brake line .
Then I removed the break caliper bracket or the torque plate as the book calls it . Some people remove the whole bracket instead of the caliper but since I'm not in a rush I removed it in this order .
Then I ONLY loosen the nut on the bottom strut .
Then I ONLY loosen the top nut on the strut .
Then I removed the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the nut for the tie rod .
Then you remove the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the ball joint nut . The reason I say to loosen only these nuts cause you still have to remove the strut .
Once you have everything loosened up then you can put something on the bottom of the strut and lower the vehicle so that it presses the spring smaller . Then with your spring compressor you can put it on . this way makes it easier then having to compress the spring you have some added help here . Once you have your spring compressor secure then you can raise the vehicle . Remove the strut bolts and nuts .
Then you can gently start tapping out your tie rod , your bearing and your CV shaft .
Then there you have it the whole spindle and assembly . Ready to take it to a shop to have them press it on and off .
This is basically what you need a inner and outer seal and the front bearing if yoru hub is damaged then you have to purchase that .
The red arrow is the hub part and the yellow arrow is the bearing and the blue arrow is the outer seal .
The yellow arrows show the hub and the inner seal .
The first two pictures are what it should look like when you have the new bearings and front and rear seal pressed in . Then you press in the hub and then this is what it looks like when it is completed .
Then you put everything back together . Before you put your tire back on check and recheck all your bolts , nuts , cotter pins .
Then put your tire on lower your vehicle check and recheck your lug nuts . 
question: on another forum, you mentioned that the bearing needs to be machine pressed onto the hub, is that a missing step on this blog, or can it be hand pressed since the wheel hub and bearing are replaced as in the case of this blog? second question, do i really need to go through the whole spring compression steps, or can i just tap the assembly out? thx.
ReplyDeleteYes you need to compress the spring cause once you remove the two bolts to the strut the spring will drop or push down
Deletemy bad, i overlooked the wheel bearing press procedure on this blog.....it is necessary. thx.
ReplyDeleteGreat job! You helped me so much...and saved me labor cost....thanks again.
ReplyDeleteGreat job and the pics helps alot! So how many miles are yours going out at? Our 95 went out(one side) at 130k miles this year. It was just under $400 at an import auto repair shop in san diego,ca
ReplyDeleteWhat kinda of shop are you guys bringing the hub in to get the bearing pressed out/in at? Would a machine shop know how to do that right and put the seals in? What kinda of labor are they charging you guys?
ReplyDeleteVery well done! Of course going to save me gobs of money. Right on dude!
ReplyDeleteYou DO NOT need to compress the strut in any way,I don't even pop the hood for this repair. just take it out as a whole assembly if you feel you need to. Three bolts on the top of the strut tower and the two in the knuckle at the bottom, unbolt anything attached and it will fall out easy as pie. Other then that misinformation it was a good write up.
ReplyDeleteI don't take it to a shop to get overcharged for a simple procedure with a press. Use a drift and break the bearing that is pressed in and remove all the inner race and individual bearings and clean up old grease . I then use a dremel with an appropriate bit and carefully grind a channel in the outer race that is pressed into the hub. Don't cut all the way through. Then take a chisel and lightly chisel in the channel you made and it will break. It usually breaks before using the chisel because of the pressure it is under. Then just pull it out. Clean out the bore of the hub apply grease or anti-seize and use a socket or pipe the same diameter as the outer race of the new bearing and drift the new bearing in slowly and make sure it is going in straight. Use the axle nut to pull the axle through the hub and new bearing. Voila! Preferably use a press but not crucial if you have a steady hand and a good sense..
DeleteDon't forget the grease seals they can carefully be drifted in with a socket or pipe as well. Just tap lightly
DeleteI don't take it to a shop to get overcharged for a simple procedure with a press. Use a drift and break the bearing that is pressed in and remove all the inner race and individual bearings and clean up old grease . I then use a dremel with an appropriate bit and carefully grind a channel in the outer race that is pressed into the hub. Don't cut all the way through. Then take a chisel and lightly chisel in the channel you made and it will break. It usually breaks before using the chisel because of the pressure it is under. Then just pull it out. Clean out the bore of the hub apply grease or anti-seize and use a socket or pipe the same diameter as the outer race of the new bearing and drift the new bearing in slowly and make sure it is going in straight. Use the axle nut to pull the axle through the hub and new bearing. Voila! Preferably use a press but not crucial if you have a steady hand and a good sense..
DeleteWhat size is the CV shaft nut? I tried replacing some worn brake pads for the first time myself on my 97 Corolla and was stopped in my tracks once I removed the cotter pin and saw this. What size attachment are you using to remove it with the torque wrench? Thanks!
ReplyDelete30mm
ReplyDelete