DIY - Resurface Your Plastic Headlights

hand file or dremmel tool




2" wide masking tape



220 grit sand paper



400 grit sand paper



800 grit sandpaper



1200-1500 grit sandpaper



rubbing/buffing compound



electric or pneumatic buffer and wool pad, or polishing cloths





Most plastic headlights have plastic "nubs" protruding from the surface, these are for molding purposes and do nothing for the beam of the light itself, so it will be much easier on your project if you file them down flush with the surface of the lens either manually or with a dremel tool. Protect any adjascent surfaces around the headlight with a couple rows of masking tape several layers thick......repainting is EXPENSIVE!!!!



Beginning with the 220 grit sandpaper, woork over the surface of the lens in small circular motions. As you begin to remove the broken down or degraded plastic from the surface, the plastic sanding residue will begin to turn white from yellowish and the surface of the lens will begin to look more blemish free. Do this until you have a uniform, cledar but scuffed appearing surface, this should only take 2-3 minutes by hand depending on the size of the area. Next move to the 400 grit paper, but this time move in straight lines in an "X" pattern, or horizontally, then vertically until all of the circular scratches from the 220 grit paper are gone. Next you will step up to the 800 grit paper, again in circular motions until the straigh line 400 grit scratches are gone. Finally you are on the last phase of resurfacing, start in straight line motions until the 800 grit scratches are gone, then go in small circular motions, these will be easier to polish out.



If you have a buffing machine, 1200 rpms is aout ideal speed with a wool pad for this operation. Put approximately a half dollar size "1.5" diameter spot of compound on the lens and use the wool pad on the buffer to spread it across the surface of the lens without starting the machine. Next start the buffer and using the outer 2-3 inches of the pad, work from side to side and bottom to top until the compound starts to dry. Reapply compound as needed and repeat this process until you have a nice clear brilliant shine on your lens. Keep the buffer moving at all times, if you sit in one spot, you WILL melt the plastic and then you will need a new headlight. If you do not have a buffer, this process will take you quite a while and will wear you out, so be ready and be patient. Basically you will use the same process, but instead of the buffer, you are going to use a fine woven cloth (terry or micrfiber will work well) and work in straight line, then circular patterns until you acheive the same look described above.



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DIY - Inner & Outer Tie Rod Corolla 98 - 02

This is a DIY for a front wheel drive Corolla 98 - 02 Inner & Outer Tie Rods . There are some videos on YouTube but none of Corolla's but it give you a general idea on helping you in this DIY .

Your gonna need this tool . It must have the crows feet , the other tool they rent at Auto Zone is for American cars . This tool I purchased at Harbor Freight cost $35.00 and is for Imports .

Corolla's from 98 - 02 have a Inner & Outer Tie Rod which looks like this . Older years only have outer . This DIY should apply to all Corolla front wheel drive with Inner Tie Rods.

First you remove the cotter pin for the outer tie rod them you loosen up the adjusting nut as shown in photos about . Once you have done the first two steps then you remove the castle nut then with a outer tie rod tool you pop the outer tie rod from the spindle . You can use a brass hammer to not damage the thread and hit from below . Then Once you have done those procedures then you remove the outer tie rod but make sure you mark the inner tie rod so that when you assemble it back together you are near point of alignment . Or if your just removing the outer tie rod then you can adjust it back to it's original spot.

Then you remove the outer clamp on the inner tie rod boot and then you go under neath the vehicle and break off the clamp on the inside of the inner tie rod . This clamp CANNOT be used again that is why you use a tie strap in its place . Once you remove both clamps then you remove the boot completely . Make sure you put this boot back on so DO NOT cut it or destroy it .

Now with the Inner Tie Rod tools you find the correct crows foot as the old one is a different size then the new one going in . You put the crows foot on the flat part of the Inner Tie Rod then you slide the tool over the complete tie rod once you feel you have a hold of then then you put a breaker bar on the end of it and remove the inner tie rod .

Now this is how the Inner Tie Rod tool works. Same procedure when your taking the tie rod off . You must use the crows foot cause there is a lock washer that sticks up and the crows foot will fit perfectly .

This tool makes it so much easier and gets the job done fast .

Make sure when your putting the new tie rod you put the lock washer and in some cases it is recommended to put lock thread blue . The blue one holds it in place and helping out the lock washer plus the blue is medium strenght and is easy to remove if need to replace in the future . If you choose not to use the lock thread that is fine to cause you do have the lock washer but better to be safe them sorry .

Once you have done that procedure in reverse put your inner tie rod back on and hand tight it with the tool . Before you put your outer tie rod on get a tie strap put it on gently then put the boot back over and secure both ends .

Then put your outer tie rod remembering where you marked it previously .

Here is the how it should look when you have completed all procedures . Then off to the alignment shop . Make sure when you do this you immediately go to a alignment shop that way you aren't doing any unnecessary wear on your tires . Even if you have it close to alignment better in the long run .

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DIY - Eliminating a 1ZZ Power Steering Belt

when you do this your powersteering pump will be bypassed. you can then disconnect the lines from the steering rack (I would suggest looping the lines into eachother).




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DIY - NON HID - 9005/9006 to H4 Conversion Diagram

Revised Version Below

DIY Rear Disc Brake Conversion Corolla 93 - 97

If you were wondering on how to get rear disk brakes I found 2 cars that you can get it and is cheaper than the 92 Camry swap that's 5 lugs

you need any of these cars since they are 4 lugged already

if I'm correct

88-92 corolla gts

or

92 Geo prizm gsi they came with the 4age motor and rear disk break

now my friend is doing this swap right now as soon he is finish I will tell you all the details



we found a Geo prizm 92 gsi and we took the rear disk for his car and everything bolted up except for the adjustable arm that you have to take it and weld the other part that holds the holes the break to be adjusted(the control arm bracket) I will put pic later


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DIY: AE101/ 111 Rear Lower (2 points) Bar install

Just got the Ultra Racing Lower 2 point bar that goes under the back of the car or.................................A lower arm bar is an alloy/steel bar that ties the lower suspension pick-up points of a vehicle (with an independent suspension) together. It increases chassis rigidity by bracing the left and right lower-control-arm sheet metal mounting points. The lower arm bar is designed to reduce the non-pivoting movement of the control arms and to stiffen the subframe to lessen the distortion of the lower suspension, especially during hard cornering. As a result, it improves the handling and steering response of the vehicle much like a strut bar. A lower arm bar provides additional benefits in front-wheel drive vehicles by reducing wheel hop and torque steer. The bar lowers ground clearance by approximately 30 millimeters on most aftermarket installations.

 Ok here we go on this. first lift your car up on jacks. you will need a 19mm wrench and socket.

                                        
 
In the next 3 pics you will see the oem washer and a 5/8`s washer. you can not use the oem for its to large. go to Home depo or lowes to get the 5/8`s  grade 8 washer . WHY ? Grade 8 is very strong metel and wont rust or bend when you tighten the strut bar on to the cross arms. Note dont be CHEEP this only cost $1.25 and well worth it

After you put in the new washers , just slide the bolt back through and tighten it back down and your done.


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Toyota Radio Wire Harnesses Diagram

This is just a wire diagram for certain Toyota vehicles .