Monday, December 31, 2012

DIY - 91 - 94 Tercel Rear Brakes & Bearings

This is a DIY for a Toyota Tercel 91 - 94 . This can be used to replacing your rear brakes or your rear bearings .

Once you remove the tire you have to remove the center cap of the drum because this vehicle doesn't have a stud bearing this has drum bearings - inner and outer bearings with a rear seal .

Then you remove the cotter pin then the castle lock cap , the nut and the flat washer then you will see the outer bearing come out . Make sure you place both bearing in a cheese cloth and wrap them up so that no dust particles get into the bearings .

Now to remove the inner bearing and seal you replace the nut back on then put the drum over the nut let it rest on the spindle and with a little force pull towards you and you will feel the inner bearing grab the nut then slide back and pull towards you with some force not alot cause you can blow out the bearing but if the bearing blows out then it was no good to begin with . Once the seal and bearing is removed then you place these with the other bearings and cover up till you have to put the drum back together .

Then you remove the U tension spring starting from the left , Then you go to the brake adjuster , Then you remove the left brake shoe then go towards the right brake shoe . To remove the brake show completely you have to with your hands push down on the emergency brake cable spring and it will fall out . You can see all these procedures in the photos I posted up . Make sure you remember how you took the rear brakes some people lay them down or you can take a photo . Because you will not have the other side to look at unless you take off the drum .

Now to remove the brake lever you have to remove the first spring lock washer and you have to be careful cause this will fly and it is hard to find so make sure you cup it as  you are taking thing one off . Then you remove the spring then you need to remove the horseshoe lock washer . The new brake kit will come with a pin that you have to hammer into the side of the brake shoe . It feels like it wont fit but it will . Now be careful you don't hit it to hard cause you can bend the shoe but as easily as you bend it you can bend it straight back . Once you replaced the pin then you put everything back on the same way you took it off .

Then you can put your brakes back on the same procedure you took them off remember to put some antisieze on the brake adjuster . You can open up the adjuster till it starts grabbing because you cant adjust the brakes until the drum is on completely .

Some auto parts store sells packages of bearing grease and of course you have many types . Always remember to clean off your bearing completely before dipping or using new grease you do not want to contaminate it .  Check your bearing before you dip them in grease . If they are black then that means they were ran hot and are no good , check to see if center of bearing is tight or look for abrasions and scratches and check the races .

Then clean out your hub area inner and outer using brake cleaner or degreaser . Once you have it cleaned then you generously apply grease on the races then with your greased up bearing set it in place . Then apply more grease .
Once you apply the grease you put a new seal on it . This seal prevents the bearing grease to enter the brake area . Do not be cheap its cheaper to buy a seal then to have your brakes fill with grease then you will not stop properly and ruin the rear brakes . Make sure you wipe the area around the outside of the seal as in photo above .

 Then you turn the drum around and do the same thing to the outer bearing but when you put the bearing on you have to put the drum on then you can put the spindle nut back on . You first tighten the center nut then then you back it off 1/4 inch and spin the drum if you feel drag just back off a little till you feel it free but not loose . Once you have the cotter pin on then you apply more grease around the bearing then you can put the center cap back on .
Then you go to the back side of the brakes and remove the rubber seal and adjust your rear brakes till you hear a tiny drag then remember to put these rubber seal in cause if you don't when it rains water and sand will fill your drum up .
More DIY or information at .

Saturday, November 24, 2012

DIY - Plastic Welder Repair on a Headlight

 This is a basic DIY using Plastic Welder to repair and mold a plastic part on my headlight . This can be used on other plastic parts that need repair .

There are two types of plastic welder but I bought this one cause it is super high pressure .

I removed my headlight and as you can see in the other photos the piece that is broken . This is the stud that holds the headlight to the fender . With out this the headlight will be hard to align the beam straight .

Remove this center piece cause this is your mixing stick .

Then you snap the bottom cause that is your lid to keep the glue from drying .

I wore plastic gloves then I mixed the glue as the directions said then I rolled the broken piece in the glue . Now this doesn't dry quick but don't let it sit cause it will dry .
This is the first coat . You let sit dry for about 30 minutes then if you wish you can keep on applying .

I used the whole tube in 3 separate applies . The good thing with this you can sand paper this if you desire but in my case I didn't have to .
I let it set over night to better dry then I put my headlight back on . I was able to hand tight down the nut and it kept from breaking . This held up real good .
I have been told you can use this to glue stuff together as long as it is plastic to plastic .