Wednesday, November 30, 2011

DIY - Home Depot Lip

Well, here it is...

Took me about 30 minutes to do, and that was with the car on the ground. It would probably be easier if it were jacked up some and on jack stands...

Tools and Materials:

10mm Socket and Ratchet

Pointy Screwdriver (Or drill)

Wire Cutters


Zip Ties

3M Outdoor double sided tape

Garage Door Bottom (I got it in a 12 foot roll. Only need about 7-8 feet)


 First, you'll need to remove the radiator guard under the car. You can do this by taking out the 5 bolts pictured below.


Once you have that off, lay out the Garage Door Bottom along the bumper on the ground.

Take the double sided tape, and stick it along the edge of the garage door bottom. I left a little gap from the edge so it would be less noticeable...

 Now, hold the lip up to the bumper, and decide where you'd like it to be placed. Whether you like it recessed in a little, or on the edge. I went for a middle ground with it...


Next, stick it onto the bottom of the bumper. I found out that once you stick it on the bumper, it doesn't like to be taken back off. So get it right the first time :p

Next, keep unrolling the tape along the garage door bottom as you go around the bumper.

Then, work your way around the bumper. Make sure to take your time, checking the spacing to make sure it's even. If it's not, it WILL be noticeable. When going around any curves, make sure to push the lip into the corners so it sits flush with the bottom of the bumper. If you don't, you'll have a hard time getting it to curve with the bumper.

Then, once you worked your way all the way around, using scissors, cut off the excess garage door bottom.

Now, I clamped the edges to make sure the lip wouldn't start to come off while I secured it in place. Then, I took my pointed screwdriver and just pushed it through the lip, and the bottom of the bumper.

 Once I did that, I just fed through a zip tie.

 After that, pull the zip tie tight, and make sure it is secured as this will be the main thing holding the lip on. Once you've done that, move down about 4-5 inches, and make another hole, feed through the ziptie, and pull it tight. Repeat this as you work your way around the bumper.

When you get to a corner or spot where you have to keep the lip pressed up against the bumper, use a few zip ties to make sure it stays tight along the bottom of the bumper.

Now, take those wire cutters and snip off the extra stems on the zip ties to clean it up a bit...

Now, replace your radiator guard that you took off in the beginning by putting those 5 bolts back in, and you're all done!

Pictures of the final product...

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

DIY - Corolla Fender Liner 98 - 02

 This is a DIY for a Corolla fender liner . A reminder that a Corolla 98 - 99 are different from a 00 - 02 so before you order make sure you have purchased the correct one .

All you would need is a flat head screw driver and a ratchet 10mm . This DIY takes about 5 minutes with out taking the tire off all you need to do is raise the car up till the tire comes off the ground a little .

As you can see in the photo above my old one was broken .

 The purpose of the fender liner is to keep rocks , salt , snow, water to ruin the wires under the fender or in my case to protect my HID box .

With the ratchet you remove the 3 bolts one is by the tow hook in the front and the others are spread center and back , then with your flat head you pop out the other push fasteners , If necessary you can purchase the push fasteners at Auto Zone just make sure you have the correct size sometimes these will break of you would need a pliers to help you pull them out .

Once you remove the liner then you do it in reverse and make sure the liner is nice and tight .

These photos about is the new fender liner and how it should look when it is all done .

More DIY at :

Monday, November 21, 2011

DIY - Resurface Your Plastic Headlights

hand file or dremmel tool

2" wide masking tape

220 grit sand paper

400 grit sand paper

800 grit sandpaper

1200-1500 grit sandpaper

rubbing/buffing compound

electric or pneumatic buffer and wool pad, or polishing cloths

Most plastic headlights have plastic "nubs" protruding from the surface, these are for molding purposes and do nothing for the beam of the light itself, so it will be much easier on your project if you file them down flush with the surface of the lens either manually or with a dremel tool. Protect any adjascent surfaces around the headlight with a couple rows of masking tape several layers thick......repainting is EXPENSIVE!!!!

Beginning with the 220 grit sandpaper, woork over the surface of the lens in small circular motions. As you begin to remove the broken down or degraded plastic from the surface, the plastic sanding residue will begin to turn white from yellowish and the surface of the lens will begin to look more blemish free. Do this until you have a uniform, cledar but scuffed appearing surface, this should only take 2-3 minutes by hand depending on the size of the area. Next move to the 400 grit paper, but this time move in straight lines in an "X" pattern, or horizontally, then vertically until all of the circular scratches from the 220 grit paper are gone. Next you will step up to the 800 grit paper, again in circular motions until the straigh line 400 grit scratches are gone. Finally you are on the last phase of resurfacing, start in straight line motions until the 800 grit scratches are gone, then go in small circular motions, these will be easier to polish out.

If you have a buffing machine, 1200 rpms is aout ideal speed with a wool pad for this operation. Put approximately a half dollar size "1.5" diameter spot of compound on the lens and use the wool pad on the buffer to spread it across the surface of the lens without starting the machine. Next start the buffer and using the outer 2-3 inches of the pad, work from side to side and bottom to top until the compound starts to dry. Reapply compound as needed and repeat this process until you have a nice clear brilliant shine on your lens. Keep the buffer moving at all times, if you sit in one spot, you WILL melt the plastic and then you will need a new headlight. If you do not have a buffer, this process will take you quite a while and will wear you out, so be ready and be patient. Basically you will use the same process, but instead of the buffer, you are going to use a fine woven cloth (terry or micrfiber will work well) and work in straight line, then circular patterns until you acheive the same look described above.

Read more:

Saturday, November 5, 2011

DIY - Inner & Outer Tie Rod Corolla 98 - 02

This is a DIY for a front wheel drive Corolla 98 - 02 Inner & Outer Tie Rods . There are some videos on YouTube but none of Corolla's but it give you a general idea on helping you in this DIY .

Your gonna need this tool . It must have the crows feet , the other tool they rent at Auto Zone is for American cars . This tool I purchased at Harbor Freight cost $35.00 and is for Imports .

Corolla's from 98 - 02 have a Inner & Outer Tie Rod which looks like this . Older years only have outer . This DIY should apply to all Corolla front wheel drive with Inner Tie Rods.

First you remove the cotter pin for the outer tie rod them you loosen up the adjusting nut as shown in photos about . Once you have done the first two steps then you remove the castle nut then with a outer tie rod tool you pop the outer tie rod from the spindle . You can use a brass hammer to not damage the thread and hit from below . Then Once you have done those procedures then you remove the outer tie rod but make sure you mark the inner tie rod so that when you assemble it back together you are near point of alignment . Or if your just removing the outer tie rod then you can adjust it back to it's original spot.

Then you remove the outer clamp on the inner tie rod boot and then you go under neath the vehicle and break off the clamp on the inside of the inner tie rod . This clamp CANNOT be used again that is why you use a tie strap in its place . Once you remove both clamps then you remove the boot completely . Make sure you put this boot back on so DO NOT cut it or destroy it .

Now with the Inner Tie Rod tools you find the correct crows foot as the old one is a different size then the new one going in . You put the crows foot on the flat part of the Inner Tie Rod then you slide the tool over the complete tie rod once you feel you have a hold of then then you put a breaker bar on the end of it and remove the inner tie rod .

Now this is how the Inner Tie Rod tool works. Same procedure when your taking the tie rod off . You must use the crows foot cause there is a lock washer that sticks up and the crows foot will fit perfectly .
This tool makes it so much easier and gets the job done fast .

Make sure when your putting the new tie rod you put the lock washer and in some cases it is recommended to put lock thread blue . The blue one holds it in place and helping out the lock washer plus the blue is medium strenght and is easy to remove if need to replace in the future . If you choose not to use the lock thread that is fine to cause you do have the lock washer but better to be safe them sorry .

Once you have done that procedure in reverse put your inner tie rod back on and hand tight it with the tool . Before you put your outer tie rod on get a tie strap put it on gently then put the boot back over and secure both ends .

Then put your outer tie rod remembering where you marked it previously .

Here is the how it should look when you have completed all procedures . Then off to the alignment shop . Make sure when you do this you immediately go to a alignment shop that way you aren't doing any unnecessary wear on your tires . Even if you have it close to alignment better in the long run .