Sunday, July 25, 2010

DIY Stand Out Toyota Logo

Now the stand out Toyota will need a photo copy of the Logo...I got mine from the internet, also x-acto knife, foamies sheet that you can get at Michael's, spray adhesive, some fabric and a lot of patience...

First print out logo......and tape over the first foam sheet....then cut. You should get the first Logo. Once done glue it on top of the second sheet and cut outer part.

Once done cut fabric to specific measurement ....put some glue on Logo and glue fabric over and give the shape to fabric

And there you have it . You can do it in any way you want this was just to show you how it looks .

Saturday, July 24, 2010

DIY Polishing Aluminum Engine Parts To a Mirror Finish

Here you go guys another DIY..this one is not mine but I've done rims using the same technique. Since the engine bay is hot you might want to spray some high temp or rims clear coat to prevent it from dulling out.

We start with the standard piece, in this case it's the coolant neck of a Gen3 3S-GTE engine.

The first step is the most time consuming and important phase. The amount of work and detail you're prepared to bring into this phase determines how well it'll look in the end.

To get the part to a smooth, mirror-shine finish we need to smoothen the surface of the part. Since this aluminum part is cast, the cast structure needs to be leveled. Aluminum is very soft and this can be achieved by hand-sanding the structure down with grit 80 sanding paper:

I'm using a cork sanding block, which isn't too large and gives in a little. A hard, plastic sanding block wouldn't work as well because it's not flexible, making it much harder to sand curved surfaces.

After the first stroke, this problem area becomes visible:

The top is not completely round but has a weird shape. You could leave it like this, but as I said, this stage determines how well the finished piece will look. So I want this removed to create a nice round shape instead of what it is now. I use a big metal file to level the high areas. This is the result:

I also filed down the casting seams at the top:

The rest of the shapes were okay, these just required sanding. Do as much as you can with the sanding block, because you can easily apply pressure on it, making the work much easier. Also, when not using a tool like a block, you're bound to create waves in the soft material, which will show once it's completed. Compare it to body filler: you need the sanding block to create a tight, planar surface. If you'd sand the filler by hand, you'd create a warped surface.

After sanding more:

Here I filed away the ongoing casting seam with the same file:

The file leaves pretty heavy scratches. 80 Grit sandpaper deals with it though:

A bit further down, there's a small '2' cast into the piece.

I used a miniature file to get rid of it:

I used the large metal file again to level this:

You can see how much material was removed by looking at the blank material. After more sanding, sanding and sanding, stage1 was completed.


The next stages are considerably shorter, and easier. 120 Grit sandpaper is up!

In this picture, the top part has been sanded down with 120 grit, the rest is still 80. The idea is, that every scratch you made with the 80 grit sanding paper must be removed by the 120 grit. If you don't, you'll see it throughout the remaining stages!

Here, the piece is complete done.


The next stage is 220 grit sanding. Again, you should sand away all the sanding marks left by the 120 grit stage. All done:


The next phase it 400. This is where it gets tricky, because this is one of the highest grits you can still dry-sand. Wipe off the paper often, because it tends to fill up with aluminum dust very quickly.

As you can see, the piece gets shinier by the hour!


Now we move to wet sanding. Get a bucket of warm water and throw in some pieces of 1200 grit sanding paper. You might also get an old towel, fold it four times, and lay it on your lap. I found this greatly helps in not getting my lap soaking wet.

Also, note that at this point, sanding can be done by hand for most parts. You're not altering the shape of the piece any more, you're just refining the texture of the aluminum. Some parts may still be easier to do with a block or rubber, but hand-sanding will get you into all the tight areas.


The last sanding step is 2500 grit. Again, this can be done by hand to save time. Finished piece:


Now it's time for the topping on the ice! Get yourself a hard cotton/cloth polishing disc with polishing paste (usually a hard bar), and mount it on a drill.

Use this to polish the piece to the mirror-shine you always dreamed of!


Friday, July 23, 2010

DIY AE86 Strut Assembly into TE72 With Coil Overs

NOTE: Paradise Racing also sells the coil over kit for TE72 I just wanted to go with AE86 strut assembly in case I wanted to go cheap and use lowering springs; so it is up to you but the steps will work for either one of them.

Things needed:

AE 86 Strut insert refill (autozone)
AE 86 Strut Assembly (junkyard)
AE 86 Calipers and Pads (junkyard)
AE 86 Drilled and Slotted Brake Disk (optional)(ebay)
Wire Brush for drill (3 different sizes is better) (Dollar Store or Walmart)
Bearing Grease (autozone)
AE 86 Coilover kit (paradise racing)

Tools Needed

12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
21mm socket
Electric or pneumatic impact wrench
flat tip screwdriver
10mm wrench
8mm wrench
Vice grip
hydraulic jack
jack stand
diagonal cotters
breaker bar
pry bar
empty container or bucket
big pliers


First of all I started with a rusted off strut assembly so it was time to clean the corrosion, primer and paint all parts. Before this; it is better if you take it completely apart. You will need the 14mm socket to take the calipers off the assembly. Also the 12mm socket to take the caliper apart. You will also need a bucket, big pliers, and a vice to take apart the strut insert. Don't tightened the strut too tight in the vice since it will damage the cylinder...just enough to remove the nut. Now remove the brake disk by removing the grease cover at the front with a flat tip and hammer. Use the diagonal cutters to remove the cotter pin. Now remove the nut follow by the bearings and brake disk assembly. If you are to replace the disk use the 14 mm to remove 4 bolts on the back of disk assembly to remove disk from assembly. Also remove the brake disk backing plate from strut assembly by removing 4 bolts. Once everything is apart clean, primer and paint all parts.

Now just assemble everything the same way you took it apart. Now it is time to order your parts and be jumpy every time the door bell The first thing I got was the coil over kit from paradise racing. The way you set them up is fairly easy. First the treated sleeve and the locking nut and the adjustment nut on top(the one with Allen key bolt), follow by the locking ring, then your spring. Next one will be your top part or hat. Use the zip thighs out of the kit to keep the hat and spring together and pit the cotter pin/locking pin into hat. Then use the second upper cover out of your AE86 strut assembly. The one with bolts that goes attached to the frame from the ae86 will not be used, you will use the one out of your TE72. Check out pics to learn how to set it up.

Now it is time to get the old ones out and the new ones in. First raise the front end of car up and put it on jack stands. Using the 21mm socket remove front tires. Then open hood and take strut assembly center nut cover out(that is the one on top of each strut assembly under the hood). Now use your impact wrench and 19mm socket to remove the strut assembly main bolt(you may have to use the vice grip to prevent the strut insert/piston to rotate during removal). Your upper hat from the TE72 strut assembly will stay attached to the car. Now use your 10mm wrench to removed the brake line and put empty container under it to recover the brake fluid. Once removed, use a flat tip and hammer to take out the locking pin/latch that holds the line in place out. Now use your 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove 2 bolts under strut assembly the ones holding it to the lower plate. At this time your strut assembly will be loose and all you need to do is pry it out and/or step on lower plate to make room for assembly to come out. Now remove the old assembly and install the new one the same way you removed the old one. Make sure both side are adjusted the same way. Install both tires and lower car. Now remember to bleed the brake system and your done. Take it for a spin and bring it back. Now do final adjustments, so lower or raise and you are done.

Now enjoy your new coil overs and your new look....hope you enjoy and got something out of this DIY .

Tuesday, July 20, 2010


I currently ran into an issue with my 1986 AE86. The alternators are set OEM specs to hold 60amps and have been an issue thruout the years of ownership and they can't keep you battery charged by mearely using your headlights, lead along AC, power windows, Sound systems with 500+ watts, etc.

And when you get the ones from local auto parts, they last short periods of time or fail within the first month or 2. ALso, there are nearly ZERO shops willing to modify your alternators affraid you will burn up your rides and then suit them for it.

Well, here's an idea that works for any pre-1990 Corolla GTS or FX16 fitted with 4AGE engines...
The 1984-87 alternators were 60AMPS
1988-89 alternators were 70AMPS
1990-91 alternators were 80AMPS

THEY ALL FIT EACH OTHER WITH NO MODIFICATIONS REQUIRED (may be except for the 4AGZE), you can simply order the 1991 Corolla GTS alternator and there you have it!!

Can you see the ONLY Difference between the 2 pictures below? (Main post casing)
On your left is a 1991 Corolla GTS (4AGE engine) 80APMS Alternator...on your right a 1984-87 Corolla GTS (4AGE engine) 60APMS Alternator.

This may verywell be the same with other Rides that although their bodies/engines may have changed, their engines may still be using the same alternator housing/connections/brackets, but internally, they are capable of more AMPS and that will solve your issue with adding accessories to your rides and not affecting your charging system.

Do your own search on other rides and Good luck!

Saturday, July 17, 2010

DIY Rear Hub Bearing Corolla 03 - 08


1. Chock the front wheels
2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts (21mm)
3. Jack up the car
4. Place a jack stand
5. Remove the wheel
6. Release the hand brake

Screw the two M8×1.25 bolts into the holes in the drum brake to push it away from the hub. It may be rusted to the hub so prepare for some cracking sounds. Remove the drum once it is free

Remove the four 12mm bolts on the back of the hub. You may need a breaker bar. Do not use thin walled 1/4" drive sockets--I broke two trying to remove those bolts.

While holding the backing plate and taking care not to disturb the brake parts and brake line, pull the hub out of the suspension arm. Once it is out, reinsert the bolts to hold the backing plate to the suspension arm so that it doesn't hang by the brake line.

Line up the bolts and insert the new hub. Torque the bolts to 45 ft·lbf. Remember, these bolts hold your wheels on the car!

Friday, July 16, 2010

DIY Adding Power Mirrors Corolla 93 - 97

This DIY is how to add Power Mirrors to a Non Power Mirror Corolla 93 - 97 .

1: Pull out the left side vent. No screws, just pulls out
Parts needed: Mirrors -Door Harness for mirror -Mirror switch

So far I only installed the right side as I have not painted the left one yet. The left side install is the same as the right.

1: Pull out the left side vent. No screws, just pulls out

2: Untape the unused connector. Pop out the square plastic piece, and pop in the control switch. Plug it on, and pop the vent back on.

3: Take off the right side lower door sill trim. There is one plastic piece you need to unscrew, and 3 plastic clips holding it down to the sill.

4: Pull off the triangle mirror cover.

5: Take off the door panel. There are 2 screws in the arm and 1 in the handle.

7: Remove the glove box. NOTE, there is 2 10mm bolts behind the plastic on the sides behind the glove box. I left 1 of the plastic covers on so you know what it looks like.

6: Unscrew and remove the mirror, 3 10mm bolts. Then screw on the power mirror.

7: Unscrew the speaker and remove.

8: Pull the door harness through the speaker area. There is a white connector in the kick panel where indicated by my finger. Also, there is a plastic clip holding the harness to the door, in the middle of the lower door side part of the hinge, also indicated by my finger. Pop it though. Then pull the harness through where the speaker should be.

9: Run the mirror wires though the with the speaker wires. Run the harness back through the door into the kick panel. Plug the speak connector back, and then plug the mirror harness in as well, and connect the plug to the mirror.

And there you have it power mirrors , The driver side is done the same way