First you need is a ratchet 14m socket , brake caliper tool or a big C clamp , brake pads , flat head screw driver , anti seize .
First and foremost chalk your rear wheels , You can use a brick or a block of wood .
Then place your floor jack on one of the four points of your car . ( Reminder : If you want to raise both side put the jack in the front and use jack stands , but I only do one side at a time. )
Before you raise your car break loose the lug nuts , DO NOT REMOVE THEM WHILE TIRE IS ON THE GROUND . Then raise the tire off the ground .
Once you have the tire off turn the wheel either left or right depending on what side you are working on for better access to the bolts and gives you more working area .
With your ratchet and 14m remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the brace . ( Reminder : Counter clock wise removes the bolts . )
Sometimes the caliper will pull away by hand but if it doesnt just slide the flat head screw driver and gently pull towards you . DO NOT LET THE CALIPER FALL TO THE GROUND AND STRETCH THE BRAKE HOSE .
In this photo I hung up the caliper on the lip of my strut keeping the hose from stretching . Plus check your brake lines and other things while you are underneath there .
The brake pads will slide out to the side in a set groove . If you have to sometimes you might need a flat head screw driver to pry them apart .
Remove the brake pin so that you can lube and inspect . Some people don't do this and they freeze or rust in there if the rubber part is broken .
You noticed one of the pins doesnt have the black rubber which is ok but both should have them . You can purchase a lube pack from your local auto part store for 1.00 or you can use anti seize . ( Reminder : This is Very Important you lube these pins and when you put the pins back make sure the rubber boot goes over the lip at the end of the pin just push it in all the way . )
Lift up the top of the brake fluid container cap and rest it over the hole so that when you push the calipers back the fluid can easily rise up bake through the lines .And when you are finished with both sides before bleeding make sure you put the cap back on tightly . ( Warning : DO NOT FULLY TAKE THE CAP OFF BECAUSE BRAKE FLUID ABSORBS MOISTURE AND DIRT CAN BLOW IN THE FLUID IF YOU DO NOT WORK INSIDE A GARAGE . )
With your brake took or C - clamp gently push the piston back fully open . ( Reminder : If you use a C - Clamp use the OLD brake pad to cover the hole up and rest the flat part in the center . )
Apply some disc brake quiet on the back of the pads . Some people use the spray . I use this product because it works best for me . ( Some pads come with metal silencers like the photo shows but I still put the brake quiet on there to keep the brakes from rattling and getting loose when they get lower . )
Make sure when you put your pads back on the the pad with the metal warning goes on the inside of the rotor . You will see where my finger is pointed.
I personally put anti seize on my all my bolts to keep them from freezing or rusting together with the pin causing the pin to spin .
If your pin does spin then you put a open end wrench on it . ( Warning : You can use a vise grip pliers but gently apply pressure on it so you don't leave marks around the edge of the pin . )
Then remove the rubber part protecting your bleeder hole and have some one prime the brakes up first , Then have them hold the brake pedal down then open up the bleeder till there foot is on the floor then tighten up immediatly . In this case I didn't bleed my brakes because I never opened up my brake lines plus i already replaced my fluids from a past brake job . But if you never did a full flush it is recomended you do so . Or if your brakes felt spongy then do so but as long as you didnt get any air into the lines you are ok not to bleed . ( WARNING : MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE CAP ON THE BRAKE RESERVOIR BEFORE BLEEDING . MAKE SURE WHO EVER PRIMES THEBRAKES DOESN'T LIFT UP ON THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU CLOSE THE BLEEDER . MAKE SURE ALL THE AIR IS OUT OF THE LINE OR UNTIL YOU SEE NEW FLUID . ALWAYS START FROM THE FARTHEST AWAY FROM THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER . )
Before you put your rims back on wipe and check your studs for thread wear and put some anti seize just as little so that next time you take off your lug nuts it will be easier .
Since I only did one side at a time I was able from the way I raised my vehicle up to have both wheels off the ground , I took the opportunity to rotate my tires putting the one with more tire tread in the front . ( Recomendation : That you check your air pressure and look for nails and any defects in your tires while you have them off .
When you tighten your lug nuts it's best you go in this order that way the rim will evenly rest on the flat part of the rotor , First you snug them slightly then bring the car on to the tire until the tire doesnt spin not all the way down , Then you tighten the lug nuts the rest of the way with out over torquing . If you have a 5 lug pattern then do it as a star pattern . ( Reminder : If you have a automatic you can tighten with the car up in the air if you have a clutch then you need to slowly lower your car . )
Then test your brakes back and fourth in your driveway .