Oil Catch Can takes the oily air that normally comes from the crankcase ventilation (either by the valve cover or from the PCV valve) and send it through the tank so the oil gets trapped in a cleanable canister (the can) while the air gas re-routed to the intake. The catch can is not a reservoir or oil supply. The gunk that accumulates in it should be cleaned out and disposed of properly. Highly recommended on fuel injection cars mounted between the PCV and intake. Without a catch-can, all that oil/carbon gunk builds-up on the tips of the injectors and can cause pre-igntion (pinging) over time.
One of the main things is to find a open spot for the catch can . It can be placed any where you just have to purchase longer hoses .
The oil catch can comes with hoses but I highly recomend you use from the auto parts store they sell them by the inch . For this purpose I used a hose for show but later on I changed the hose to the black hose from my local auto parts store .
It is best to get a oil catch can that you can remove the top and not a fully sealed one . This makes it easier to clean and in this photo I added some steel wool to soak up the extra oil . ( The reason I put the steel wool is cause with it being empty the oil will splash around and possibly re-enter into the intake . )
Once you find your location then you screw the bracket tightly enough so that the catch can doesn't get loose or rattles . You can add meduim lock tight on the screws if you like .
You remove the the hose as shown in the blue arrows and you add a breather on the valve cover and in the intake you just cut a piece of hose and put a screw in it so that you seal it off . This keeps the heat from the crankcase entering your intake and releasing out of the breather . The green arrow shows the PCV where you will hook up your hose for your oil catch can and on the other side is the bottom of the intake .
Then you connect your hose having the one from the PCV enter the catch can and the other hose going directly to the bottom of the intake .
Then in the end it will look like this . This is a very simple modification . This in no way adds performance but it keeps the fuel and the oil from mixing as it enters your intake . Which gives you better gas mileage , long lasting injectors especially in older running cars .
First you make sure you wires are numbered or that you remember where you took the wires off the spark plug and the distributor cap . Putting these back on wrong will lead to your car not functioning correctly .
First you remove the spark plug wires and lay them above the cylinder so that you know the order that they are in . In this case we are gonna remove all the wires and change them out but if your wires are still good then you can do one spark plug at a time , remove and replace .
The spark plugs I used are the Denso K16R-U ( 3119 ) . Some auto parts stores don't carry them and they will try to sell you another brand or type of plug . Tell them to order them . Advance is the auto part store that carries the Denso plugs . Then you gap them at .032 . Make sure you find the gap for your vehicle . I looked in my manual and this is the plug that my car calls for .
Once I have gap my plugs then I put some anti seize so that they can be easily removed next time or else your plugs might be a little tight comming off . Then in this case I only put the plugs back in the proper cylinder and do not connect the wire to the plugs just rest them in so that you know the order of your wires to the distributor cap .
Then I removed my PCV and put a new one there . If it doesn't rattle then the PCV is clogged if it does rattle then it is ok .
Then I remove the cover for the air filter so that I can get to the distributor cap screws . Plus I can put a new air filter too .
Then you can remove the 3 screws that hold down the distributor cap .
Then with a flat head screw driver you remove the rotor button . It might feel tight but it does slide off . Becareful you don't lean on the cover inside and break it .
I recommend that you put a little bit of anti seize in the center so it won't be so tuff to take off the next time .
Then before you put your wires and yoru cap on put some dielectric grease on the spark plug wires so that they won't stick to the spark plug the next time you remove them and the distributor cap so that no moisture builds up in them . There is a rubber seal that the distributor cap should come with that goes on the bottom . Make sure you have that cause sometimes you have to replace your old one .
Make sure you take off the spark wire clips off the end for the distributor cap cause you are gonna need them and reuse them on your new wires . Then you put everything back in order . The distributor caps have numbers on then and sometimes the new plugs will too .
Then you go to the bottom of the oil pan and remove the oil pan drain bolt .
You might have to lower your car a little because the oil drain plug is facing the front and you need to even the car as much as you can with out squishing the plastic oil catcher . Let that drain until you see no more oil comming out of it .
Then keeping that oil pan catcher still underneath you remove the oil filter . Some cars you can remove it from the top or the bottom . Once you remove the oil filter you clean up all that area before putting your new filter on .
Then with some oil you put a little around the new rubber gasket area before putting the new filter on . You put the new oil filter on hand tight only . Then you make sure your oil drain plug is hand tight . Wipe up the area so that when you start your car you can look for any oil leaks .
Once you are completed then you start your car to make sure it is running correctly . Look for any oil leaks . Check your other fluids such as brake fluid , radiator coolant , power steering and transmission .
